A winter’s day at Winchester cathedral
Last time I went to Winchester cathedral, I was accompanied by a 17-month-old toddler, complete with her large buggy and her equally large insistence on testing out the acoustics of those phenomenal arched ceilings.
Apart from the mild embarrassment factor, we had a very fun day in this lovely city. But the chance to go back again, explore without an easily bored companion, and take another wander through the ancient streets? Yes please.
So when one of my oldest friends asked me to come out for a day out in Winchester with her and her husband to celebrate her birthday, I hopped straight on a train (oh the peace!) and enjoyed the frosty fields and blue skies on the way to Hampshire.
I do love wandering around a cathedral at the best of times, but there’s simply so much history to Winchester – 15 centuries! – that it’s easily one of my favourites for a day out.
You might not get lavish royal tombs, but that’s because the ancient royalty interred here are now jumbled up together in mortuary chests.
William Rufus and Queen Emma aren’t the biggest names in our history admittedly – although the latter, whose second marriage was to King Cnut (aka Canute) and who was the mother of two kings plus the great aunt of William the Conqueror, deserves at least a page.
There are bishops galore to see though, thanks to its position as one of England’s most important cities and a key bishopric long after London cemented its position as the country’s capital.
But it’s the little touches which I love. The medieval tiles which you can still walk on (carefully though), the 12th century black marble font, the tombstones and memorials dating back centuries especially this wonderful one about the two brothers from Avington whose lives mirrored each other to a surprising degree!
Perhaps the most famous is the memorial to Jane Austen, buried here, and erected after her death as her fame grew. The original inscription focuses more on the sweetness of her nature (although I will forever read it as ‘fweetnefs’).
This time as I wandered, gazing at the glorious ceiling, enjoying the light streaming in onto the carved stone and spotting St Swithin’s holy hole behind the stunning gold icons, I got to discover several new sides as well.
Chatting to one of the cathedral staff, something that happens less when you’re entertaining a toddler, he filled in some more of the building’s history.
Although I’d known it was built by William the Conqueror on the site of an Anglo Saxon minster and cathedral, I’d never really considered the reality.
This stunning church was more a symbol of power, a huge stone statement of the Norman conquest – begun just 13 years after the invasion itself. And the builders were mostly the original inhabitants.
Whether willing or unwilling, one thing was certain: they didn’t have a lot of experience. If you look at one of the oldest sections in the north transept, there’s still evidence of their occasional ineptitude with too much mortar and some distinctly wonky stones.
No real surprise that the original tower later fell down and had to be rebuilt.
What has survived down the ages is the Winchester Bible, which has rarely left the cathedral since it was created in the 12th century.
All four volumes will be on display in the library eventually, but you can see one example with its astonishingly bright original colours currently in the north transept too.
No photos of the original, obviously, so these signs give only a suggestion of the beauty of these illustrations.
Visiting in midwinter has another unexpected bonus. A high water table (and plenty of recent rain) meant the crypt had flooded, something which apparently happens on a fairly regular basis.
With the still waters around the base of an Anthony Gormley statue, Sound II, the contemplative figure looks even more striking.
There’s too much to try to cram in to one blog post (take one of the free tours or wander round like we did, there are signs and information galore) but I also discovered it’s worth picking up the free children’s trail leaflet at the entrance. Even if you don’t have a child to hand.
Frankly, I should have paid even closer attention on the day as I missed looking for the hedgehogs on two gravestones. Hedgehogs! But I did get an explanation for the diver’s helmet in the retrochoir.
Around a century ago, a deep sea diver called William Walker helped repair the cathedral’s sinking foundations – working in darkness for six hours a day for six years until it was safe.
I hardly know how to thank him.
For more days out in Hampshire with kids, check out my pick of the best across the county
Need to know: Visit Winchester cathedral
Tickets cost from £12.50 if you book online, which then gives you admission for the rest of the year, while children under 16 enter free. The tower tour costs £7.50.
There was also an audio tour when I visited, which is not currently available but the guided tours and children’s activity leaflets are free.
The cathedral opening hours are from 9am-5pm on Monday to Saturday (opening hours may be shorter from November to March) and 12.30pm-3pm on Sundays, with occasional temporary closures – check here for details.
There is a Christmas market in the grounds of the cathedral from November to December – check out our day out and video of visiting Winchester Christmas market with kids.
For more ideas of days out in Hampshire and across the UK, check out my round-up of family days out, including nearby Marwell Zoo and Winchester Science Centre
PIN FOR LATER: A DAY OUT AT WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL
All images copyright MummyTravels
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oh wow This is somewhere I really want to go one day. Your living the travel life– i dream of visiting wierd and wonderful places! Thanks for sharing. Angela x
Thanks! I do hope so 🙂
Wonderful Place,I Like It.Lovely Written,Fab Photos…
Thanks!
I’ve never been to Winchester but I do love visiting cathedrals.
Same here, and I think Winchester has one of the loveliest cathedrals I’ve visited.
I remember going to a cathedral in my school days. If they made it half as interesting as you have them maybe I would’ve enjoyed it lol. Looks great X
Haha – well, I’m glad I win out! Maybe even tempt you back in to one another day 🙂
I love Cathedrals and this one looks beautiful. I visited Winchester years ago, but not the Cathedral. Great photos. Kaz x
Thanks! This one is particularly lovely, I think – just so much detail.
This looks like a great place to visit without toddler/preschooler! The photo of the crypt is gorgeous. Funny how they have never done anything about the flooding. Hope your friend had a good birthday xx
Thanks! And it did surprise me slightly that this seemed to be a yearly hazard – I got the impression the location meant it would be very difficult to do much about, and presumably it’s not affecting the foundations or main cathedral.
Beautiful pics and agreed, nothing like wandering around a Cathedral. Amazing how much time those cavernous ceilings seem to hold still within them! I’m intrigued by the hedgehogs though.
Thanks! They really do, such astonishing buildings. I think I am going to have to go back for the hedgehogs…
This looks amazing ! And what fantastic photos – I love the photo of the red door! We used to live in Durham and the cathedral there was amazing
Thanks! I haven’t been to Durham cathedral for far too long – I think I need a return trip north.
As we discussed before on IG, I love Winchester. Quite a few memories from visiting a friend there, and the cathedral is spectacular.
It really is wonderful isn’t it.
this is a stunning Cathedral, thanks for sharing and the lovely pictures. Looks like its worth a visit
Thanks, and absolutely, I hope you get the chance one day.
At last, I can see the inside of the Cathedral! How fantastic that you were there when the crypt was flooded – your picture of the Anthony Gormley statue is beautiful. Coincidently I posted about Winchester this week too. Great minds and a lovely place 🙂
Great minds indeed – looking forward to reading your post. I do hope you get to go inside yourself one day! And thank you, the crypt really did look quite beautiful, so peaceful with the statue in the still waters.
Wow what a wonderful place, I love places like this that are steeped in history. I’m always amazed at how much information and history can surround one place, lovely pictures Cathy! Thanks for linking up #bestandworst
Thanks! It is incredible to think of this cathedral standing in one shape or form for almost 1000 years, and a church on the site for another 500 before that.
I am amazed how much you took in”!! You are so right; life with a toddler is like a whistle stop tour. It looks amazing with so much history and your pics are fab. Definitely worth a nosey. Thanks for sharing with #bestandworst x
Thanks! Seizing the opportunity to soak it all up 🙂
Oh wow your pictures are lovely. We visited Winchester for the markets last year but decided to not go inside the Cathedral as I had my two young children with me. It does look very impressive and hopefully I’ll get to go another time. #bestandworst
Thank you – it is such an amazing building. I hope you get to go back, and they are very welcoming of families too.
We visited Winchester a while back and really loved it. The Cathedral is amazing. When we visited there was a wedding taking place so they were playing the organ. We also loved the Gormley statue and walking up some of the interior steps on our knees toward the shrine. Ouch! But fun.
It’s fantastic isn’t it – although I did skip the penitent staircase climbing. Ouch, does not look comfortable 🙂
The Gormley statue in the water is beautiful, so tranquil and unexpected. I’m always in awe in cathedrals, just imagining the sheer magnitude of constructing such buildings back in the days when they didn’t have cranes and all the machines we take for granted nowadays. The craftsmanship and hours of hard labour that goes into such places is phenomenal. You don’t have to be religious to appreciate it; I’m not and yet I love visiting churches and cathedrals. I think I last went to Winchester when I was at school many eons ago. Time to go back!
Absolutely, I feel very much the same. Although Winchester is still very definitely a functioning place of worship, it is a wonderful piece of architecture too, especially all the incredible detail.
Such a treat! Love the photo of a flooded crypt! #citytripping
Thanks – it was quite special to see the reflections
I love ancient churches! It’s amazing how much of the local history is enshrined in them. I didn’t know this is where Jane Austen was buried, and I would love to see the Winchester Bible someday, too. Glad you had a fun day out!
They are amazing are’t they – and the Bible is astonishing, especially something which is so many centuries old. The colours are incredible!
I’ve never been to Winchester cathedral but this is the second post I’ve read in the last week about it so must be worth a trip- although better enjoyed without a little one! So much history to explore! #citytripping
The universe is trying to tell you something… It is a lovely place to visit with littler ones too, although definitely easier to wander slowly and appreciate each detail without!
There’s always so much to see in these places, I’m not surprised you didn’t manage to catch them all in one day! I’ve never been to Winchester, even though we have some old friends living there. We’ll have to pay it a visit soon – I do love a good cathedral.
It’s definitely one of my favourites (and a lovely city to wander around with friends too). I think you’re right that one visit is never enough to discover everything either.
I’ve been looking forward to reading this ever since seeing your beautiful photos on Instagram. I love going round cathedrals too. So much beauty and history – and I love all the stories. I didn’t grow up all that far from Winchester so it’s positively shameful that I’ve never been in the cathedral. I must rectify that asap. #citytripping
Thank you 🙂 It is always the places on the doorstep we miss, I think. I’ve been to Winchester more recently than Westminster! Hope you get there soon though.
Great post! I haven’t been to Winchester Cathedral yet, but your post really made me want to go 🙂 I usually try to avoid places of worship with the kids, but as I love visiting places like this, I will have to give it a try 🙂 #citytripping
Thanks! It is a lovely one.
Love Winchester, we have friends there so have been lucky to visit on several occasions but haven’t yet been to the cathedral…you’ve inspired me for my next visit! 🙂
It is a great city, I think, I love wandering around and lots to discover. The cathedral is definitely the highlight for me – hope you make it there!
Aaahh..a grown-up day out – sounds divine! So much history to explore here and your photos are beautiful. Love the one of the flooded crypt. The story at the end of the man who helped to repair – wow.
Thank you! And that story was amazing, I thought – I can’t imagine the conditions he must have worked in.
looks amazing i always love visiting Cathedrals the architecture and history are always amazing. This cathedral looks like one not to miss
#citytrippin
I do love visiting cathedrals as well, this one really is special though.
My goodness those ceilings are absolutely stunning!!! I didn’t have enough time in our itinerary to visit this past summer. I hope I get the chance to see it when we make it back on that side of the world again. #CityTripping
They are incredible – soaring above, I spent half my time gazing upwards. I do hope you get chance to visit another time.
What a beautiful cathedral.
Whilst I do love to travel with my child there are times when going it alone means you get to fully appreciate a place without the constant whining.
It is lovely – and was a nice change to soak up all the detail without someone with a tiny attention span dashing off ahead!
The cathedral’s interior is very impressive. The geometry is perfect. I imagine one feel very small when surrounded by that many tall arches. It feels good to return to lovely places like this one.
Very much so – it is so imposing
What a gorgeous cathedral! Hard to imagine it was once sinking and a diver worked for years to fix that. Kudos to him! #citytripping
I know – I can’t even imagine doing that task for a day, let alone six years! Although I shall always be grateful that he did save such a wonderful place.
I didn’t know that the memorial for Jane Austen was buried at Winchester Cathedral (..learn something new everyday!) What a treat to be able to have a chat with the Cathedral staff without having to run around after a toddler:)
I love discovering new things like that as I travel – definitely easier when you can stop and pay attention though 🙂
Looks great! #citytripping
Thanks! It is 🙂
Love the interior!
Gorgeous, isn’t it!