Winchester: Cathedral, Christmas market and chivalry

Winchester cathedral is one of those stunning works of art chiselled painstakingly out of stone. The roof soars above the nave, tracery and carvings lit up by the beams which filter through the stained glass windows.

For a toddler, it’s not so much the appearance as the effect that matters. Minutes into our visit, and a way into what should have been her nap, Minnie discovered the power of acoustics.

So as I wandered past ancient graves, marvelled at the 12th century polished stone font and tried to dodge the tour group in front of Jane Austen’s memorial plaque, she tested out her vocabulary.

Allo! Allo! Mamma, mamma, mamma, mamma. Bababababababababa bababababababababa.

Shattering the (previously) peaceful hush and echoing through the longest medieval cathedral in Europe. Fortunately Christian charity prevailed, and no-one (apart from me, whispering ever more plaintive pleas for her to hush) seemed too bothered.

Thankfully, as I’d been looking forward to my chance to visit once more.

Built almost on the site of one of England’s first 7th century churches, the cathedral was once at the heart of royal power for the Anglo-Saxons and Normans.

Mortuary chests containing kingly (and queenly) bones dating back nearly a millennium are still housed in the cathedral (although they’re temporarily removed at present).

And while the main section of the cathedral is worth a visit on its own, the most interesting area (to me, at least) is at the back in the retrochoir. And, sadly, up a flight of stairs.

There is a lift for wheelchairs, but after asking for help, the two vergers who carried the buggy up (and the tour guide who helped lift her down) suggested avoiding the slightly jerky and slow process of using that if possible.

Here you can walk on 13th century tiles, see 12th century wall paintings, 14th century misericords in the choir itself, and beautiful chantry chapels, all over 500 years old. With ancient tombs and some very unusual Byzantine icons, I could have stayed all day trying to soak up every detail.

But without wanting to test toddler patience any further, and knowing I couldn’t easily get down into the crypt (even with a helpful verger), I headed back out into the city.

I returned a couple of years later without Minnie and finally got to look into the crypt… check out my post on visiting Winchester Cathedral

In fact, we’d already spent several hours in and around the cathedral precincts, starting at the Refectory for Minnie’s lunch. With high chairs, baby changing, and very helpful staff who carried my tray as I weaved through the tables with a buggy, I could see why so many families were there.

Outside, in the grounds, is the Winchester cathedral Christmas market and ice rink. Divided into three sections, including British crafts, there were some lovely stalls with plenty of present possibilities – I very nearly came away with one of the quirky globe nightlights (with London, Paris and New York options), plus bags, jewellery, accessories, decorations and food to spend your money on.

It’s not that the cathedral is all there is to do – far from it. With its pedestrian centre, Winchester is lovely to wander around, spotting quirky historic street names (Parchment Street, Jewry), painted bollards and one of the oldest bars in England.

I liked the Winchester Cathedral Christmas market so much, I went back in 2016 – including my video of visiting Winchester Christmas market with kids

On a Monday in December, the family-friendly City Museum and the Westgate Museum were both closed – the latter is in the last of the city’s main medieval gates, where you can try on a suit of armour were both closed, although the steep steps mean it’s not so buggy friendly.  I’d also timed it badly for the kids’ events on at the Discovery Centre, which include puppet shows.

But the Great Hall – the only remaining section of Winchester castle – was open. Most of what you see in the medieval hall is restored or a later recreation (such as the still lovely Queen Eleanor’s Garden) apart from the famous Round Table.

While legend has it that this was Arthur’s original round table, the rather more accurate (if prosaic) scientific dating methods put its creation at the end of the 13th or beginning of the 14th century. Made from 121 pieces of oak, the tabletop now hangs from one wall, dominating the building.

As ever, I’d hugely over-estimated how much I could fit into one day with a toddler, so having spent the day steeped in history (and doing some essential Christmas purchasing) – there are plenty of other suggestions for things to do with kids in Winchester, including free things to do in Winchester, if you do have more time.

We didn’t even attempt to visit the zoo or the science centre. The former,  Marwell Zoo, is just outside Winchester itself. Given Minnie’s ability to nap in almost any zoo we visit, this could have come in useful if she won’t drop off to sleep in the buggy – although it’s a lot more fun to stay awake for the cheetahs, giraffes, snow leopards and other inhabitants.

And the Winchester Science Centre and Planetarium (which used to be Intech Science Centre), has a few nice options for toddlers including a Chatterbox’s Planetarium show designed for little ones to shout out, and steps up to some of the exhibits and activities. Still possibly a bit beyond Minnie but you never know…

But my ticket to the cathedral is valid for 12 months – what better excuse to come back?

For more days out in Hampshire with kids, check out my pick of the best across the county, including Winchester Science Centre as well as more things to do in Winchester with kids

Images copyright MummyTravels

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