Moorish Granada: The Albaicin, Granada
While the Alhambra is the most well-known remnant of El Andalus, the Moorish empire that ruled this part of Spain, it’s not the only piece of Moorish Granada to discover. If the Alhambra was the home of kings, the Albaicin quarter was the heart of Moorish Granada.
Running up from behind the Gran Via de Colon, flanked by the river Darro to the right, the Albaicin – or El Albayzin – seems hardly to have changed: a narrow maze of whitewashed alleys, steep streets rising up the hillside and the perfect place to while away a few hours wandering.
We were staying in an AirBNB in what seemed the perfect spot, not far from the south end. Close enough to explore the quarter or to reach the city centre, but not so far that we had endless inclines to navigate every day.
Here, by Calle Elvira, you’ll find tapas bars, stalls that wouldn’t look out of place in a Moroccan souk (and probably containing as much tourist tat as many in a medina worldwide) and if you’re lucky, people doing a double take as men inexplicably lead a pair of donkeys along the cobbled road.
Step just a few streets back and the world vanishes. Mule steps, broad and shallow, make you climb awkwardly, giving plenty of excuses to stop and catch your breath or photograph another picturesque passageway.
Then suddenly, you round a corner to discover – a church with an orange tree perhaps. Intricately tiled houses. Another tapas bar in a tiny square. A guitarist strumming a melancholy tune.
You’ll inevitably get lost, meandering from silent street to sunlit plaza, but that’s half the fun.
Wandering back down one evening, we found ourselves unexpectedly on the lovely riverside Carrera del Darro, simply by following one weaving slope after another eastwards in the knowledge we’d eventually end up beneath the Alhambra.
Sitting watching the world pass by, including a Segway tour being rebuked by the guide for trying to take photos while steering, we also found one of the few bars which doesn’t offer free tapas with every drink – although La Fontana did have some lovely red wine at bargain prices as we browsed the menu.
But while you explore this Unesco World Heritage site, there are a few spots not to miss in the Albaicin, Granada.
Mirador San Nicolas
Famous among Granada’s many viewpoints for having a stunning outlook onto the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Alhambra – as well as for being the haunt of pickpockets.
I have to say we didn’t see a hint of the latter but the former is definitely true. Busy in late afternoon in March, I can only imagine how packed it is at sunset or in summer, but it’s worth braving the crowds. The man dressed as Death, outside the nearby church was an unexpectedly weird bonus.
Mirador San Cristobal
Not quite as easy to find by the crowd of people, this is on the other side of the Albaicin. Looking down onto the town and cathedral, it also overlooks the ancient city wall, the remains of the Alcazaba or fortress housing the town and the huge Puerta Elvira gate.
Plaza Larga
One of the most appealing sections of the Albaicin is set around this square – Moorish courtyards in cafes, tiles galore, blindingly white churches, even the Puerta de las Pesas (or Gate of the Weights) where merchants’ weights were inspected for the nearby market.
There are several walking routes of the area which pass by, marked in coloured dots on the free tourist information maps.
The archaeological museum
Closed for renovation on my visit, it has a string of galleries showing the city’s history from the Stone Age through to Roman and Arabic culture, all set around a lovely courtyard.
The hammam
For the complete Moorish experience, you need the baths. Our Airbnb hosts recommended the Hammam Al Andalus, just off Plaza Nueva, to experience it yourself, but not far from Carrera del Darro are the El Banuelo baths dating from the 11th century.
No longer functioning, you can still visit to look around.
Discover more of Granada’s ancient multicultural mix – Catholic Granada, Jewish Granada and Roma Sacromonte
PIN FOR LATER: MOORISH GRANADA – THE ALBAICIN QUARTER
All images copyright MummyTravels/Cathy Winston
LIKED THIS? SIGN UP FOR MY EMAIL NEWSLETTER
The Mother says – I’ve really started enjoying reading travel blogs as you can learn so much more about potential places to visit. What a shame the archaeological museum was closed as that would’ve been right up my street. #MondayEscapades
They’re perfect for inspiration – after going on my own travels, reading about other people’s is a good second. And that reminds me I have an excuse to go back to Granada as I missed the museum!
How wonderful! I had read up a bit about thsi regionw hile I was writing my Myths,Legends from Spain post. Hope to visit it someday! I read that the fountain inside the castle was where a big tragedy had occurred and that there are blood stains still present?Anyhow, I would also love to go for a Hammam some time:)
It is a wonderful city, so many different cultures to explore – I’ve heard that story too. I think the reality is a bit more prosaic but it’s a good legend 🙂
Oh take me there now! Granada has been on my wish list for some time now and I keep going to other places instead of it. Whyyyyy? I don’t know. It’s time to rectify that. #mondayescapes
Definitely! I was the same – I’d always wanted to go to Granada and never seemed to make it. Finally booked the trip last year and had the most amazing time, it’s just wonderful.
Just popping by again for #citytripping to say 9 months later I still haven’t been! There’s just too much to see in this beautiful world and too little time (and money!)
That is the problem! A time machine and lottery win would definitely be two of my three wishes if I had a pet genie…
This sounds beautiful! I’ve always wanted to go but for some reason have yet to go. So much history. Will definitely have to pay it a visit soon. #mondayescapes
It is gorgeous – so much to discover in Granada and a great place to explore.
I still haven’t been…and still want to go. Have enjoyed re-reading this for #citytripping
Re-reading it myself makes me want to go back 🙂
I’ve always wanted to try a hammam! I didn’t know anything about Moorish Granada, so thank you so much for enlightening me. Your photos are lovely, I get a real sense of wandering the back streets. The view over Plaza Larga is wonderful. Thanks so much for linking up with #MondayEscapes
My pleasure – the Alhambra is amazing but the whole city is wonderful to wander around. And I’ve mostly tried hammams in N Africa but they are a great experience!
I love decorative tiles and mosaics, and have seen many beautiful pics of Granada so much so that I have added Granada to the bucket list 🙂 Great images you have there, thanks for sharing the post.
Cheers,
Kat.
Thank you! You would absolutely love the Alhambra then but so many decorative touches all over Granada.
A beautiful part of the world, I would love to go back one day. I love the architecture especially.
Isn’t it – just wonderful buildings whichever way you look.
Oh it looks so beautiful, I have just finished reading Victoria Hislop’s the Return that is all based in and around Granada a great book. I so want to go it looks stunning x
I haven’t read that one, but all her other books make me want to visit the locations where they’re set – Granada is just gorgeous, so it wouldn’t be hard to tempt me back!
Looks like picture perfect views no matter which way you turn. Just beautiful.
Absolutely. I came back with hundreds of photos of views and details!
These charming narrow streets are awesome and make me miss Europe and its architecture. Your pictures are very pretty!
Thank you! I do love the chance to wander around historic streets and imagine what they might have seen.
What a beautiful city! There is nothing quite like a wander through a gorgeous place to center you. Thank you for sharing about traveling as a mum!
Absolutely! And my pleasure 🙂
Amazing street photos! Everything looks so pretty there. My fave photo is the one of the whole city. So stunning! #MondayEscapes
Thank you! It really is such a gorgeous city.
Spain is somewhere I’ve not really explored but this looks beautiful. Spain to me always conjure images of tapas and sangria! #mondayescapes
Nor me – I had a few beach holidays when I was younger and have visited the Canary Islands, but otherwise just Barcelona and Granada. I’d love to see some of the other cities as well. And there was plenty of tapas (though I think we stuck to rioja rather than sangria as it was March!)
We had a great time exploring El Albayzin on our Christmas visit to Granada a couple of years ago. We were even able to dine al fresco on the square in December. Love Spain!
#citytripping
It’s such a lovely place to wander around – and wonderful to be sitting outside in winter!
Wow this looks so beautiful – amazing pictures Cathy, you have really captured the feel of this area and it’s architecture. Very inspiring:) #citytripping18
Thank you! I was snapping away like a woman possessed – I love the white buildings and twisting streets.
Ah – all that white and blue, it’s making me pine for the summer! I’ve visited Spain a few times, but never Granada. It looks so beautiful.
There’s something about that combination, isn’t there. Granada is wonderful, so glad I managed to visit – I’ve a lot of Spain left on my list too
That area of Spain has been on my bucket list FOREVER! Really want to go now after seeing your photos. Looks amazing. Thanks for sharing! #citytripping
My pleasure – glad you liked it, and I do hope you get there, it’s such a fabulous city.
I’d so love to visit Granada! I love how the little streets make it seem like a small town rather than a city. You’ve described it perfectly – I get a real sense of the place and its history. #citytripping
Thank you! It really felt very much like a collection of neighbourhoods, more so than other cities I’ve visited.
Great photos! We’re visiting Granada in May and I’m really looking forward to it. I’m saving your post and taking note of your tips as I start planning our trip. Thanks for sharing! #CityTripping
Thanks – and have a fantastic time! There’s also some tips on visiting the Alhambra, and other posts in my guide: https://www.mummytravels.com/2014/10/14/mummytravels-guide-to-granada/
beautiful! My friend visited Alhambra:)
Thanks – it is stunning.
How much would I love some Chololate con Churros right now! And how much would I love to see a hammam, that sounds really cool. Thank you so much for giving us this little inside, I really need to go to Spain now!
Mmmm yes – had incredible thick chocolate there too.
What a pretty town!
So lovely 🙂
I’ve only been on a Segway once and they were much harder to control than you think they’ll be so I can only imagine the difficulty of trying to take a photo whilst on one! We had a fab holiday in Granada pre-kids so it’s yet another place to return to one day….. #citytripping
I’ve never tried one but can imagine they’re quite unpredictable. Granada is definitely somewhere I want to go back to as well (although I will be staying on two feet!)
Granada was already on the must visit list but you have really brought it to life – thanks so much. Question – are the hammam’s appropriate for children? If so, at what age? I’d love to take our kids but suspect it might not be appropriate.
That’s lovely to hear – thank you! I haven’t tried a hammam with kids but I’ve never seen them there either so I suspect it would only be older children, probably teens or 10+ min.
My daughter lived in Granada for half a year when she was learning Spanish. She has been back since then already three times. I guess I’ve to go, too #CityTripping
I can imagine – would be a wonderful place to live. And absolutely, I’d try to join her next time.
It looks like such a pretty town to explore. #CityTripping.
Very much – perfect for wandering.
Love Granada, though it’s been many years since I visited. I think you’ve described it so well, the meandering and wandering around the tiled streets, the views, the random going-ons. I so wish I could be transported there now. #citytripping
Thank you! Same here – it just begs for a lazy sunshiney day to amble around seeing what you discover. I loved it.
That is the kind of exercise I don’t mind doing, wandering and getting lost in alleyways of a beautiful place! 🙂
Same here – I can walk miles when I’m exploring, always much more fun than going for a jog…
We thought we were totally lost in the Albaycin, but managed to somehow get to the Alhambra, anyway! We were there in the winter, though, so it was a little too chilly to just wander around. I’d love to return to Granada in the fall or spring and check out the places you listed! Thanks for the #citytripping link-up, it’s right up my alley! 🙂
It is a bit of a maze, isn’t it. I think Spring is a lovely time – apart from one drizzly day (when we were at the Alhambra, unfortunately), it was sunny but still lovely to walk around. I can imagine it’s sweltering in summer. Maybe May next time 🙂
What a beautiful city! I don’t know yet this part of Spain, hope we’ll discover it soon 🙂
It’s a gorgeous city – so much to discover but very easy to explore.
This looks like a very nice place to visit! Thanks for inspiration!
My pleasure – it definitely is.
It looks so calm and beautiful now but I suspect it has seen some violent action over the centuries! That fortress wasn’t built just to look good for today’s tourists! #citytripping
Absolutely – so much history in Granada, and definitely not just the peaceful kind!
I know I have read this post before, but that’s OK. It’s reminding me that I should travel to Spain the soonest possible. It’s a sign! 🙂 #CityTripping
Absolutely – if you find yourself reading it again, the universe is telling you to start booking 🙂
I have learned about the notoriety of Alhambra from a friend who recently traveled to this place. But for this she too had a wonderful stay. I enjoyed reading your travel account …what a wonderful trip you had
Thanks! It’s a fantastic place.
What a lovely lyrical description of wandering around the backstreets. You totally have me sold. Are mule steps thus called because they are designed for mues, or for some other reason?
Thank you! And yes, exactly that – they’re designed perfectly if you have four legs and hooves, spaced to climb easily. For a human, they’re unexpectedly hard work. Well, that’s my excuse…
At places like this, getting lost is the best part. #CityTripping
Absolutely!