Catholic Granada: Ferdinand and Isabella’s legacy
If the spirit of the Moorish empire lives on in the alleys of the Albaicin and the memory of Granada’s Jews is kept alive in the Realejo, there’s no question of the eventual victors.
The jewel in the crown of the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, the final success of the Reconquista, it was the fall of Granada which united Spain under the pious king and queen.
Mosques became the foundations for churches galore, dotted around the city’s hills. But if you’re in any doubt, you simply need to look at Granada’s cathedral… not hard as it’s visible from most viewpoints in the city and unmissable if you’re in the city’s centre.
This was a building designed to show the power and majesty of the Catholic church, and to remind the city’s subjects just who was in charge in Granada: Ferdinand and Isabella. Grand and imposing, it brought to mind another cathedral not too far away in Albi, south west France.
Built at the time of the crusade against the Cathars, that’s another brick behemoth that’s as much statement as architecture.
When we visited Granada’s cathedral, there was a wedding about to take place, so we only had chance for a quick look around. The first oddity is the way it seems so much smaller on the inside – but in fact, the exterior building is divided, with the Capilla Real, or Chapel Royal, taking up one section.
The second is the layout. Rather than a traditional cruciform nave, all focused on the high altar, the side chapels cluster around a central section under a high vaulted ceiling which made both guests and tourists almost vanish in the echoing space.
But while it’s certainly worth a visit, including the small museum (if you’re not restricted by impending wedding vows), it was the Chapel Royal which made most impact.
Built as the final resting place of the two monarchs, joined by their daughter and her husband (plus the coffin of another young prince), their carved marble memorials dominate the space.
Raised up high, it’s not so easy to take in all the regal detail – but head down the stairs underground and you can see the simple, austere black coffins, in complete contrast to the pomp and circumstance above.
There are also two small side chapels, including royal portraits, but the other eye-catcher is the main altar, an intricate gilded screen showing tales of the saints and the crucifixion, flanked by two statues of Ferdinand and Isabella.
Then in the sacristy museum, something to help bring these two figures out of history and almost to life – a crown, luxurious royal vestments, a sword, documents, plus a small collection of religious art, including a Botticelli and Rogier van der Weyden.
Plenty of food for thought on the religious world which they grew up in, influencing their lives and acts and perhaps adding some perspective which the stone monuments don’t.
Outside, I couldn’t help but smile when I spotted the Alcaiceria, streets of stalls selling crafts and souvenirs that seemed to come straight from a north African souk. Perhaps some victories are never quite as complete as they seem.
Catholic Granada: Need to know
Granada Cathedral costs 6 Euros to enter, free for children under 12. It is open from 10am to 6.15pm Monday to Saturday, and from 3pm to 6.15pm on Sundays.
The Capilla Real is open daily (with a few exceptions such as Good Friday, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day) from 10am-6.30pm Monday to Saturday and 11am-6.30pm on Sundays. Entry costs 6 Euros, children under 12 free.
PIN FOR LATER: CATHOLIC GRANADA
Images courtesy of Depositphotos; tomb Caron Badkin/Picfair
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I didn’t know they were buried in Granada! I became fascinated with them when I read a book about Isabella and Ferdinand called The Queen’s Vow. #CityTripping
Their story is fascinating still – I first came across them in a historical novel too.
I love Granada and remember seeing this cathedral – it certainly is imposing and you can’t miss it where ever you are in the city. This brought back fond memories of Granada. #citytripping
Absolutely – we kept spotting it from the various viewpoints as we explored.
What an amazingly beautiful city! Never considered visiting Granada before but you’ve piqued my interest! #citytripping
It’s wonderful – the Alhambra and Albaicin were probably my favourite areas but there was so much here to enjoy.
I didn’t know they were buried in Granada either! Isabella has always fascinated me, our boys have decided that they want a mini break for their birthday (chips of the old block) will add Granada to the list! Will stumble too
The pinnacle of their campaign I think, although as they both died elsewhere, the decision seems to have been their grandson’s. Granada would be a great place for history fans for a city break, I think (of any age).
Granada is definitely on my list of places I want to visit over the next few years. The history and architecture really appeal to me. As well as the food and sunshine!
#citytripping
The food was great too – and we didn’t make it to a few places which tempted me as well.
My friend visited it:) beautiful cathedral! #citytripping
It is!
A very imposing building, certainly from the outside. The Royal Chapel looks very regal and can imagine it felt rather special to view. Granada is an area I am looking forward to exploring more of, especially if there are sight such as this to see. #citytripping
The chapel seemed almost more impressive at times as there was so much decoration in the smaller space.
Granada is very much on my wish list, as you know. Interesting to read Catherine’s comment – Ferdinand and Isabella always fascinated me in my school history lessons too. #citytripping
Same here – I don’t think we ever covered them at school (or only briefly in relation to Catherine of Aragon) but there’s no doubt they made their mark on history.
These imposing religious buildings are such an inescapable reminder of history, good and bad. I wonder what Ferdinand and Isabella would make of the modern-day street hawkers? 😉 #citytripping
I don’t think I’d associate them with tolerance and liberal attitudes! A different time, admittedly…
Granada has been on my list for a long time – I would love to learn more about Spanish history which I am pretty ignorant on past the basics – thanks for sharing #citytripping
This is definitely a great place to start, I think.
Thanks for this history lesson! #citytripping
My pleasure!
That carved marble is amazing! I don’t know much about Granada – but would love to explore more of this part of Spain! Cheers from chilly and grey Copenhagen – Erin #CityTripping
So impressive – and definitely a great city to explore.
This post is so timely as I was just watching a television show about Catherine of Aragon, and her famous parents last evening! Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to enter the Cathedral during our visit to Granada as we had to make our timed entry to the Alhambra. #citytripping
Ah, always nice when it all links together – I think my fascination with the Alhambra started with the story of Catherine of Aragon.
I missed so much in Granada. My entire trip there was taken up by the Alhambra. I’ll have to read up on the history and stay there longer.
#citytripping
The Alhambra was so wonderful, I could happily have spent a very long time wandering around there – but always a good excuse to go back.
Interesting place to visit – I must admit (though I don’t know if I should as an ex history teacher!!) but I know very little about Ferdinand and Isabella. I think I need to improve my knowledge of Spanish history! #citytripping
So interesting – I admit, I don’t know a huge amount of Spanish history but I used to devour historical romances as a teenager and this was one story which really grabbed my attention
It’s so weird how grand the religious buildings are, all over the world. Lovely to look at tho
Such a huge part of life for so long, the architecture and decoration is wonderful to see.
That title was total click bait for me. I love reading about Ferdinand and Isabella and would love to discover their world in Granada. I haven’t been to Spain in a while and never further south than Barcelona so I must get on to booking that trip! #citytripping
You must – Granada is such a central part of their story. I love I’m not the only one who was fascinated by Ferdinand and Isabella too.
I didn’t know that’s where they were buried! I would love to visit Granada someday! Thanks for sharing! #citytripping
It’s interesting that neither monarch actually died in Granada – the tomb was constructed by their grandson in the end, I discovered later!
This is a place I would like to visit. In school, I learned a lot about the Catholic Monarchs because of their involvement in the discovery of America and Puerto Rico. Stories related to them take me back to my roots. Plus, your mention about the Reconquista is related to the post I recently wrote about Toledo. #citytripping
It’s a period of history which has always fascinated me too, and Granada seems to pull a lot of the strands into one city. I would very much like to see Toledo as well, I can imagine there are a lot of similarities.
I don’t recall visiting this cathedral as a twenty-something backpacker, the last time I was in Granada. I was so focused on getting to the Alhambra, but obviously I missed out on another Granada treasure! #citytripping
The Alhambra is simply amazing – if I had to pick between that and the cathedral, it would certainly win. But I did love discovering some of the other sides to the city, I suspect there’s a lot more I missed as well.
Granada’s history and architecture are intriguing, it appeals to me, definitely adding Granada to my bucket list. Great photos, Cathy! #citytripping
It’s such a fascinating city, and so much to explore in a relatively small space.
I’m more sure than ever that Granada’s a city I need to visit. I love a good cathedral! I’d love to do a bit of a city tour in Andalucia – I fell in love with Jerez, Seville and Cadiz.
You would love it, I think – I always fancied a mini road trip including Seville and Cordoba, so maybe I should throw in Jerez and Cadiz (and go back too)
Enjoyed your fascinating post about Granada cathedral and the Alcaiceria opposite. Hope to visit Granada someday! #CityTripping
Thanks! It’s such an interesting mix of cultures.
A pity you didn’t get to explore more thoroughly because of the wedding. Would have loved to see more! #CityTripping
A good excuse for me to go back, perhaps.
Sorry you weren’t able to explore it as much as you had hoped due to the wedding. Did you still have to pay the fee? #citytripping
It was actually free to enter when we visited – I discovered the fee when I was updating the piece – so didn’t mind only having a short visit.
What amazing architecture! I’d love to visit Granada one day. Polly #citytripping
It’s a fabulous city
Wonderful shots city. The architecture is amazing.