Roma Granada: Sacromonte and its legends
The views from Sacromonte, the hill overlooking Granada, are as stunning as you’d expect – its vantage point looks down onto the Alhambra, the river valley, the twisting streets of the Albaicin and the tiled roofs stretching down to the city centre.
But gorgeous though they are, it pays to turn your back on the vistas. The area is the heart of Roma Granada, where the city’s Roma community has traditionally lived, while its hills are dotted with cave homes and flamenco has its origins here, where whitewashed buildings stage flamenco shows to this day.
Wandering up from the Albaicin on a Sunday morning, we managed to time our visit to coincide with an organised race or fun run so half the streets were shut (although Alhambrabus routes 31 and 35 can normally take you there if you don’t fancy the hills).
From the silence behind the shutters, I got the feeling this sleepy atmosphere wasn’t a one-off though.
Our quest was to find the Sacromonte Cave Museum, a recreation of the way the cave homes would have been 100 years ago, showing the living spaces, crafts and culture of the inhabitants.
Other sections have been used to show the plants grown, many medicinal and herbal, along with mini exhibitions on cave-dwelling culture, the Roma and flamenco inside as well.
Managing to avoid the endless other spots randomly marked ‘museo’, after some intensive Google mapping we discovered the usual entrance was closed but a series of diversion signs took us a different route – it started to seem like a mild initiative test, following them round corner, up slope and with no evident sign of a museum.
Then suddenly, there we were. And it was worth the climb.
It’s a quirky little museum, but with plenty of information tucked into the caves – the living spaces, inevitably, more fascinating to me than the huge loom and large pieces of ironwork.
There’s something about a bed tucked away in a mini cave within a cave which makes me wonder if I could ever live somewhere like this – having stayed in a cave hotel in Matera, southern Italy, I suspect the novelty would wear off after a few nights.
But it was the small exhibitions which were best, looking at the part these caves have played throughout history. The art of flamenco grew up around here, and it’s still one of the best places in Granada to see dancers perform.
And the Reconquista led to a string of legends associated with the area. After the end of the Moorish empire, with the court’s aristocracy fleeing Spain, stories tell that they buried their treasure in the hills of Sacromonte.
Their slaves or servants, released by the conquest, headed into the hills themselves to search for this hidden gold. According to some versions of history, the treasure found its way into Ferdinand and Isabella’s hands, financing the voyage of Christopher Columbus and the discover of the New World.
In others, it’s still buried in the hills…
Need to know: Roma Granada
The museum costs 5 Euros to enter. Opening times are 10am to 8pm from March 15 to October 14, 10am to 6pm from October 15 to March 14.
Images copyright MummyTravels
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What a brilliant find. I don’t think I could manage cave dwelling but I think the concept is fascinating. The views are spectacular too #citytripping
It was a fascinating corner of the city – and no, I think the novelty of cave dwelling would wear off pretty soon. Amazing to see how people lived it.
What a very interesting experience! That would be fun to do! The only unique hotel we’ve stayed in so far was a boat hotel in Prague! I’ve seen some big wine barrels that have been turned into hotel rooms which would be amazing! #CityTripping
I do love a quirky hotel – I’ve seen some really fun ones (crane, plane, prison, even a giant wooden dog), although barrels would be a laugh. Caves were interesting for a night or two but I can’t imagine much longer.
Interesting story of the treasure! If not for that treasure, Columbus wouldn’t have discovered the new world. Or so the legend tells it. :p
I do love quirky stories like that – it makes you think… (even if it’s not true 🙂 )
a cave museum?looks cool! #city tripping
Really interesting.
Very quirky! Interesting to see how they would have lived and well done for perservering and finding it. Cave dwelling isn’t my thing I don’t think…not enough windows. The views from the Sacromonte hills are stunning! #citytripping
The views are amazing, aren’t they – I am with you on the windows though.
This sounds really interesting, Cathy. I’d love to spend a night in a cave and I’m very keen to explore more of Andalusia having fallen in love with Seville last year. Did you see any flamenco while you were there? I loved the flamenco we saw in Seville. #citytripping
It’s a fabulous city, so much to discover – I’m the other way round in that I’d love to see Seville (especially after reading your post). We didn’t see any flamenco in the end but that gives me another reason to head back.
That place is adorable! I think I would be admiring the location as much as the artifacts.
Oh definitely – such a lovely city and those views were incredible.
What a fascinating place. Quirky little museums like this are sometimes the most interesting.
Definitely – I do love those little offbeat collections.
Interesting cave. Which part of Roma is this? I’m visit Italy in Aug. #CityTripping
– Mommy Eve @twentysixoctober
Thanks – it’s not Roma/Rome in Italy though, this is Granada in Spain where the Roma gypsies lived.
Fascinating story about the origins of Flamenco and the streets of white buildings that stage flamenco dances. Thanks for sharing it on #CityTripping
Thank you – and my pleasure, thanks for linking.
What an interesting place to visit. I love the stories that you can discover in these tiny little treasure holes! #citytripping
Definitely, those little stories and legends always fascinate me.
When we visited this part of the world it was so hot that we stayed in the shade of our portico reading improving novels. Next time we will get out and about!
I think we could have done with a bit of your sun – it was on the grey side when we visited the Alhambra, although just the right amount of sunny climbing the hill to Sacromonte! A good excuse to go back though.
This looks really cool! Spain is on our “to-do” list, but with a new baby and new house, it’ll have to take the backburner and live in my dreams for now. 🙂 Thanks for sharing!
#CityTripping
Travel dreams are always good – and Spain’s a good first destination with a baby too (having also been mine!) 🙂
As a claustrophobic, I normally I despise caves, but these ones looking pretty charming. I’m not saying I’d be sleeping in that tiny, windowless bedroom, but I’d at least take a peak in the museum!
Definitely felt a lot more spacious than you’d expect from a cave – worth a look certainly.
I think I would be more interested in staying in the cave hotel you mentioned than visiting a cave museum. But if I’m on a limited budget, I guess this would do. I wonder if I would be allowed to lie on the bed and trick my friends that I’m in a cave hotel… #CityTripping
You never know 😉 For my cave hotel, you need Italy – I went to Matera in Basilicata, which has quite a few cave hotels. Definitely an experience!
The Cave Museum is fascinating! An eye-opening to the internal space and the story about treasure. Btw, that antic sewing machine, we have one at home and my mum is still using it;).
It’s so interesting to see how ingenious people can be – and I love that about the sewing machine.
What a wonderful sounding gem of a museum – both the setting and the contents. A great find. #citytripping
Thanks – there seemed to be so much to discover in Granada
What a find! And a very special place. Thanks for a good read Cathy. #citytripping
Thanks! And thank you for linking up.
Gosh, I don’t think I could sleep in that little bed! I remember eating in a Sardinian restaurant-in-a-cave and I almost had to finish my meal early… Not one for claustrophobics but a great read all the same – what an interesting bit of history. Thank you. #CityTripping
I’m with you there! It’s a fun experience for a short time though.
That view! I might have been happy just with that, but the museum does look neat. We love finding those little cultural gems. It’s always good to imagine life in someone else’s shoes, but life in a cave? I am sure it would be “interesting.” 😉
It’s great to find the slightly more unusual sides of a destination, isn’t it – and I’d definitely struggle to imagine life in those shoes for very long.
Cave homes look cool!
Definitely unusual.