The best things to do in Trogir with kids

Tucked away on a small island between the Croatian mainland and the island of Čiovo, the medieval old town of Trogir feels like it’s still one of the Adriatic’s best-kept secrets, with plenty of things to do in Trogir with kids alongside the history.

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The Unesco World Heritage site is very compact so it’s easy to stroll around – 350 steps across and 750 steps from end to end, according to our walking tour guide, and while I didn’t check her numbers, you can comfortably amble across in 10 minutes. And while you will find tour groups, especially if there’s a cruise ship in, it never felt as busy as bigger Dubrovnik or Split.

Only around 10 minutes from Split airport, it’s just over 30 minutes from Trogir to Split by road (or around an hour by ferry) so it’s also a great base for exploring further around this corner of Dalmatia, or to spend a day or two before or after a flight. Here’s my pick of the best things to do in Trogir with kids.

Is it called Trogir or Tragurium? Trogir is the modern Croatian name, but you might also come across references to Tragurium, which was the name during Greek and Roman times when it was an important trading settlement.

Trogir Old Town

The biggest highlight of a visit to Trogir with kids is simply wandering around the pedestrianised historic old town, a maze of narrow medieval streets, elegant squares, and Venetian-influenced architecture.

With souvenir shops and cafes dotted everywhere, you’ll stumble across shady little passages, golden stone buildings draped with bougainvillea and spy everything from Romanesque churches to a 13th century Dominican Monastery, Gothic palaces and Renaissance loggias.

As the entire island is barely 1km square, you never need to worry about getting lost either – just keep going and eventually you’ll reach the sea or find yourself at one of the gates; the main Land Gate on the eastern side is topped with a statue of the town’s patron saint, St John of Trogir (Sveti Ivan Trogirski), while the North Gate (or Riva Gate) opens directly onto the waterfront promenade.

There’s a park around the northern side of the island closest to the mainland too with lots of shady benches.

You don’t need to book a walking tour to explore, but it’s a great way to discover some of the details, from the carved stone coats of arms to the truth behind the empty panels above the town gates (the Venetian winged lions were removed during the Second World War occupation when Italian fascists tried to use them to claim sovereignty).

We booked this 90-minute walking tour of Trogir and it was the perfect introduction to the town’s history. Our guide Mihaela wove her own story (her roots are in Bosnia, now living here for years after marrying into an old Trogir family) through that of the town, so as well as learning about Trogir’s historic origins, we also learned more about the Balkans conflict and modern-day Trogir.

Add in some quirky details around the cathedral (including game boards scratched into the stone), how Napoleon transformed Trogir by knocking down much of the city walls, how to catch the god of happy moments, and what the grand white building on the Riva houses and it was a fun 90 minutes. Alternatively, this 90-minute walking tour is almost identical.

Cathedral of St Lawrence

The magnificent Cathedral of St Lawrence dominates Trogir’s main square and you’ll see the belltower – and hear the bells – across the town.

One of the finest examples of Romanesque-Gothic architecture in Croatia, construction began in the 13th century and continued for several hundred years, which explains the mix of architectural styles – if you look up at the belltower, you can actually see the styles change at each level.

The cathedral’s west portal is particularly spectacular, featuring an intricate 13th century stone carving by master sculptor Radovan from depicting biblical scenes and the labours of the months.

The top section depicts the New Testament, the lower part the Old Testament, with statues of Adam and Eve on each side next to male and female lions. See if you can spot the errors too; the lioness has a mane, for example, while Adam and Eve both have belly buttons (which technically, they shouldn’t).

If you want to go inside, tickets are available across the square by the Museum of Sacred Art. There are seven different combinations depending what you want to visit – the blue ticket is the cheapest, which gives entry to the cathedral and baptistery, or the red ticket also allows you to climb the bell tower, while others include various churches and the museum itself.

The tower itself is 47m high with fairly steep steps so it’s better with older kids, but the panoramic view out over Trogir’s terracotta rooftops to the deep blue Adriatic are well worth the effort.

Inside, the cathedral is beautifully cool on a hot day, with carved stone reliefs, and the Chapel of St John with the tomb of the saint, which features some stunning Renaissance sculpture.

Do note that as it’s a working church, modest dress is required – shoulders and knees should be covered – and you can’t enter during mass (unless you’re actually there for a service).

Kamerlengo Fortress

This impressive 15th-century fortress sits at the southwestern tip of Trogir’s Old Town, built by the Venetians to protect the town from attacks by the Ottomans and pirates.

It was once the key defensive point in the city walls, and you can still see some of the old walls along the waterfront nearby, but after Napoleon knocked much of the medieval walls down, it now stands alone.

If you’re expecting a castle packed with fascinating rooms, think again – this is a wide open courtyard and a couple of towers – but it’s still really fun to explore. There’s a display in one nice cool tower on the fortress’s history, but the highlight is climbing up onto the ramparts.

Take the steps to the top of the tower and there are some spectacular views right over to the marina, the old town and the sea as well as the islands beyond. The walls aren’t particularly high but there are some steep stairs and no barriers in places, so younger children will need supervising.

During summer months, the fortress hosts concerts and cultural events in the courtyard if you happen to be visiting during the evening. The fortress is open daily, with a small entrance fee.

If you head to the opposite side of the stadium by the fortress, you’ll also find St Mark’s Tower, another remnant of the town walls.

Trogir City Museum

As you walk in through the main land gate, you’ll see the entrance to the Trogir City Museum, with a collection dating from Greek and Roman times.

Set in the baroque Garagnin-Fanfogna Palace, it’s not a huge museum, so it’s easy to wander round for a quick visit, spotting everything from ancient amphorae to medieval weapons and armour, traditional costumes, sculptures and paintings.

Don’t expect anything interactive, but there are plenty of quirky artefacts to catch children’s attention, while the palace itself is impressive with its period furnishings. It’s only a few euros for adults, and you can easily see everything in less than an hour, so it’s a good option for a rainy day in Trogir with kids or to escape the midday sun.

Watch out for opening times too; it’s open 10-2pm except for Sundays and public holidays when the museum is closed, and Wednesdays when it’s open from 3-7pm.

Discover the City Loggia

Trogir’s Renaissance Loggia is set on the main square opposite the cathedral and was a place for public announcements and legal proceedings in the 15th century (except for women who were tried in the little church next door).

Today, you’ll often find musicians performing, including traditional Dalmatian singers, as well as a band when we visited on National Statehood Day.

Otherwise, you can sit on the stone benches and relax for a few minutes in the shade as you look out through the stone arches. The square beyond is filled with cafes and it’s always full of people.

Walk the Riva

Trogir’s waterfront promenade, or Riva, is a lovely place for a stroll, lined with palm trees, cafes and restaurants, with a string of little stalls by the boats moored up on the waterfront.

It’s where you’ll catch water taxis to nearby islands and where many boat tours depart from, but it’s also somewhere to stroll and soak up the sunset, or just to hang out with friends.

It does get hot during the middle of the day, but you’ll find a few shady benches as well as countless places to stop for a drink or bite to eat.

Visit the Green Market

Trogir’s morning market sets up daily near the city gate and it’s a lovely place to wander around, or pick up some provisions if you’re self-catering – look out for sun-ripened tomatoes and glossy aubergines as well as fruit galore.

You’ll also find local cheeses, cured meats, honey, olive oil, and lavender products – perfect for picking up picnic supplies or souvenirs to take home. The market is at its busiest and best from around 7am to midday.

Even if you’re not shopping, the market is fun to wander around and people-watch.

Explore the beaches

Unsurprisingly, given your location, you don’t have to go too far if you fancy a swim, although there aren’t any proper beaches on the island that’s home to the old town.

Do remember that most Croatian beaches on this stretch of coast are pebble or rock rather than sand, so water shoes are a good investment but you get beautifully clear water without any sand to cloud it as a bonus

The closest beaches are on Čiovo Island, just across the bridge from Trogir. Pantan Beach is one of the most popular, with shallow, clear water that’s ideal for children, backed by a pine forest. Part is sandy shingle, part is pebbly shingle and there’s a little bar although not much in the way of facilities otherwise.

Kava Beach at Slatine is similarly quiet with shallow water for kids, and few facilities.

If you’re looking for something with a bit more going on Okrug Gornji Beach (Copacabana) is the busiest beach, with water sports as well as places to eat along its 2km length – you can get water taxis from the old town to avoid the walk. This is more of a party beach, so best with older kids and teens than toddlers.

Otherwise, there are beaches on the mainland – Gradska Plaža Trogir is just across the bridge and around a 10-minute walk from the old town land gate. Or if you’re prepared to travel further, Medena Beach near Seget Donji is around 10 minutes’ drive from Trogir, with a gently sloping pebble beach shaded by pine forest.

Boat trips to the Blue Lagoon

With ferries to the nearby islands leaving from the port, as well as day tours, you’ll find plenty of choice of boat trips from Trogir, and one of the most popular day trips is heading to the Blue Lagoon.

Set between three small islands near Drvenik Veli, its shallow, turquoise waters are ridiculously pretty, and most tours include stops at other attractions, such as visits to islands like Šolta or Drvenik.

The Blue Lagoon’s calm, clear, shallow water makes it perfect for children to swim and snorkel too. You’ll spot fish darting between the rocks, and the water is so transparent you can see the sandy bottom clearly for a surprisingly long way.

This five-hour boat trip includes lunch and a stop at Solinska Bay on Drvenik Island, while if you prefer a smaller boat, this five-hour speedboat tour stops at the island of Solta as well as Ciovo, or this similar variation which lasts six hours.

There’s even a 10-hour day trip visiting the Blue Cave as well as the Blue Lagoon, which stops at several islands if you want to pack your day full with older kids.

Explore the underwater museum

If you’re travelling with older kids (or confident snorkellers), one of the most unusual trips is a chance to visit the ‘underwater museum’ just off shore.

Around 30-minute boat ride from Trogir, there are 50 lifesized statues tucked away beneath the waves, with a map to help you find them all.

This three-hour trip includes time on a private beach so if you’ve got family members who don’t want to snorkel or aren’t fussed about seeing the statues, they can chill out on a lounger at the same time.

Visit Čiovo Island

Connected to Trogir by a bridge, Čiovo Island has more traditional Croatian seaside resorts if you’re looking for a base by the sea to explore Trogir – or it also makes a lovely day out if you’re staying in the old town.

There’s a coastal path which runs along part of the island, which you can walk or cycle, stopping at little coves and enjoying the views back towards Trogir. The island is also home to the Monastery of the Holy Cross in Arbanija.

Or the villages of Okrug Gornji and Okrug Donji are popular with families, with a long beach to enjoy and places to eat and drink.

Explore Kastela

Between Trogir and Split, you’ll find seven small towns collectively known as Kastela, each originally built around a defensive castle or fortress.

These fortifications were all built by local nobles during the 15th and 16th centuries to protect against Ottoman raids, and it makes a fun trip from Trogir with kids to see what remains, with some small museums inside a few of them to give you a bit more background.

You can also combine history with some beach here too. The Kastela area also has a long pebble beach stretching several kilometres, popular with locals but generally less crowded than beaches closer to Split or Trogir.

Visit Split

One of my favourite places in Croatia – after all, how many times do you get to stay inside a former Roman emperor’s palace – there are so many great things to do in Split with kids and it’s a very easy day trip away.

Croatia’s second-largest city is just over 30 minutes from Trogir by road, or there’s also a ferry connecting the two which takes around an hour and costs about 10 Euros – this only runs around four times per day from June to September, three times per day in May and October, and not outside those times.

Unlike most historic sites where you’re looking at ruins behind a roped-off area, Split has grown up inside the palace, so you’ll be walking streets where legionaries once trod, while shops, restaurants and apartments now fill some of the rooms which made up emperor Diocletian’s palace.

There are some areas of the palace which have been preserved too, plus you can also enjoy a VR recreation whisking you back to Roman times. Add in beaches, museums and the lovely Marjan Forest Park, as well as a chance to stroll along the palm-fringed Riva, and it’s not hard to fill more than one day here as we discovered.

Check out my pick of the best things to do in Split with kids

Explore Krka National Park

One unmissable day trip from Trogir with kids is to the beautiful Krka National Park, only around an hour’s drive away and home to some of Croatia’s most spectacular waterfalls.

You can easily visit independently if you have your own transport but you’ll also find lots of organised tours from Trogir to Krka National Park.

The park is famous for its waterfalls, and you won’t be disappointed: it’s ridiculously pretty strolling along the boardwalk under the trees, with falls and cascades all around, turning the turquoise water into white foam.

You can also see the old blacksmith’s, the mill, laundry and fulling mill, as well as keeping an eye out for the wildlife which makes its home in the national park.

We spotted a small army of frogs, as well as fish and birds galore – no sign of the (harmless) water snakes sadly, but we did see evidence of where wild boar had gouged up the banks. The boar themselves, along with most of the other animals living here, tend to hide away from humans though in quieter parts of the park.

Check out what we thought of a day at Krka National Park with kids

Day trip to Šibenik

For another tempting day trip, Šibenik is about 45 minutes north of Trogir and is known for its Renaissance architecture and its sandy beaches.

The Unesco-listed Cathedral of St James is one of the most important Renaissance buildings in Croatia, constructed entirely from stone without any brick or wood used. Look out for the 74 sculpted faces around the exterior apse, said to represent 15th-century Šibenik citizens who refused to contribute to the cathedral’s construction.

Then a network of stone staircases connect the different levels of the Old Town, which sprawls up the hill from the waterfront. St Michael’s Fortress has some fantastic views, while you can also explore some of the others, or take the easy option and wander along the waterfront.

Unusually, there are sandy beaches here rather than the usual pebble, while if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, the city doubled for Braavos in the TV series, with the cathedral being used as the Iron Bank. It’s easy to combine with Krka National Park (and many organised tours will include a stop here).

What to eat in Trogir with kids

You’ll find plenty of Italian influences when it comes to eating in Trogir with kids, so you won’t be short of pasta and pizza, as well as Croatian dishes.

Unsurprisingly there’s fish and seafood galore, including plainer (but delicious) grilled options, as well as black risotto using cuttlefish/squid ink and buzara (mussels or prawns in a white wine and garlic sauce). Or you’ll find lots of grilled meat too, often served with blitva (dark leafy greens cooked with garlic and potatoes).

Another traditional local dish is peka, where meat or octopus is slow-cooked under a metal dome covered with hot coals. It usually requires several hours’ advance notice at restaurants, so it’s worth speaking to the restaurant about ordering ahead.

Vegetarians will find their choices more limited, although there’s always veggie pizza, but we spotted several places offering avocado toast for lunch, as well as lots of delicious salads. For something a bit fancied, Restauant Franka was a big hit with my 13-year-old (and me!).

Needless to say, ice cream is everywhere – one of our favourites in Croatia is Aroma Gelato, which has a branch in Trogir (the raspberry sorbet is my favourite) – and look out for rafioli (not ravioli), a type of traditional shortbread biscuit with almond paste.

Where to stay in Trogir with kids

We checked into a couple of AirBNB apartments during our stay, with a boat tour in between but while both worked for us, they weren’t quite good enough to recommend.

You’ll find various hotels and apartments in the Old Town and it’s lovely being able to step straight outside into the narrow streets, rather than a hot walk across one of the bridges.

When you’re choosing where to stay, bear in mind that most streets are pedestrianised, so you’re likely to have at least a short walk with luggage (including over cobbles) to get there.

It’s also worth knowing that the cathedral bells ring at around 5.30am (as well as during the day), so the further you are from the belltower, the bigger the chance of sleeping through that. Or bring earplugs!

Booking.com has a good range of hotels and apartments. Alternatively sites like Plum Guide have self-catering accommodation on the mainland and Ciovo Island

Getting Around Trogir

Trogir’s Old Town is perfect for exploring on foot – you can actually see from one end to the other if you stand on the right street, and you can easily wander across it in about 10 minutes (although you’ll want to allow much longer to actually see things properly).

Apart from one road running partway around the outside, the streets are pedestrianised and paved with smooth stone, which can be slippery, especially if you encounter rain. You can get around with pushchairs, although there are some narrow passages and you’ll be bumping over cobbles on some streets.

If you’re exploring nearby, Uber and Bolt both operate taxis and are surprisingly cheap (around 25-30 Euros from Trogir to Split, under 10 Euros from the airport), although you can also get buses between Trogir and Split, and the towns in between.

If you’re planning to explore more widely, you’ll find plenty of organised tours if you prefer not to drive, but otherwise hiring a car gives you the flexibility to explore. You won’t find parking in the Old Town but there are several car parks on the mainland side of the bridge.

Or you can also hire bikes to explore Čiovo Island (not the old town!). There’s bike rental just across the bridge as well as further down past the marina, and it’s generally quiet with some pretty coastal routes to suit families.

For more ideas of where to visit in Croatia with kids, check out my tips for Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Split

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Images: Green market/Slatine Beach/Blue hole/Blue Cave/Ciovo Island/Kastela/Sibenik courtesy Depositphotos, all other copyright MummyTravels

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