One week in Kerala itinerary – exploring southern India

One week in Kerala is not enough. Well, one week in Kerala is enough to make you fall in love with this part of southern India and vow to return – and to explore beyond the subcontinent’s western coast. A one week trip to Kerala is also enough to get a taste of this beautiful part of the world, from its iconic backwaters to its colonial history and the vibrant green tea plantations.

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So if, like me, you only have about a week to spend, you can still pack in some of the highlights.

Although I travelled without my daughter on this trip, to visit Kerala for a friend’s wedding – squeezing in our exploring before two days of parties, sari wearing and henna – it’s definitely somewhere I’d recommend with kids, especially if you’ve already visited countries like Sri Lanka or South East Asia, including Burma and Cambodia, or if this is your first visit to India.

To start you off, here’s my one week in Kerala itinerary, with tips on what’s best for kids of different ages, what to see in Kerala and how I might adapt my own visit to suit a six-year-old. All suitable for adults!

Day one to three: Fort Kochi

The historic heart of Kochi, this is also where you’ll find most of the main attractions – and unlike Ernakulam, the modern side of the city, it’s somewhere you can walk around, soaking up the sights and the colours (expect lots of offers from tuktuk drivers to take you though).

Wander along Mahatma Gandhi beach, where you’ll see fishermen bringing their catch in to sell at the little stalls and local families wandering along with an ice cream, as well as a herd of elephant statues during our visit: at the end of the sand stand the famous Chinese fishing nets which take four people to operate.

Not merely a tourist curiosity, we spotted them around the coast. For the classic sunset shot, the best views are from one of the boats but you can join the selfie-snapping crowds in one of the little coves too.

Discover some history at the Indo Portuguese museum, with artefacts from Kerala’s churches, before wandering to the Santa Cruz cathedral basilica and ambling along some of the lanes nearby, including Burger Street, with street art and little souvenir shops.

The Kerala Kathakali Center is also in this area, to get a taste of the theatrical dance style.

Further south in Mattancherry, you can explore more of Kerala’s history at the palace, donated to a former ruler by the Dutch, with its fabulous murals and in-depth displays of history.

More unusual is the reminder of Kochi’s Jewish community nearby, at the 16th century Paradesi synagogue. Spices and antiques jostle alongside the souvenirs in the lanes here. There are also specialist Jewish history tours of the area.

Do take one detour to Ernakulam though to the folklore museum with thousands of artefacts on display over three floors, covering everything from masks used in dances to statues of gods, weapons and household objects.

Even the building is a exhibit including a 63-tonne interlocking ceiling on display. One man’s collection, it’s a fascinating place to stop.

Where to stay in Fort Kochi

Stay at the Tea Bungalow – one of a string of converted heritage properties in Fort Kochi, it once belonged to Brooke Bond tea company (hence the name!).

All the rooms are decorated differently and named after sea ports: Mine (Mauritius) had a four-poster bed, huge bathroom and a picture of a dodo, while Zanzibar has its own small garden and outdoor bathroom.

The hotel also has a small pool, with Indian and western breakfast – plus the staff were very helpful sorting out a car to take us to Alleppey. One word of warning: the authentic furnishings include wooden floors, so if you have a ground floor room, you’ll get to hear the people walking around above you.

Tip: There are no direct flights from the UK to Cochin, so you’ll have to go via the Middle East or India – I’d recommend choosing the former for a smoother experience!

We flew through Muscat with Oman Air: very easy both ways with around 90 minutes to get via the additional security between planes, and long enough to grab a coffee each way (albeit at Oman’s elevated prices!).

Don’t forget you need a visa to visit India – you will not be allowed to board the plane without it, even the first leg from the UK to your transit destination. You can arrange these online in advance.

Day four to five: Alleppey and the backwaters

Perhaps the most iconic part of a trip to Kerala is taking a short cruise on a houseboat through the backwaters – and this was easily one of my favourite parts of the trip. There are more options than from Alleppey but it’s one of the main areas to start from, following the waterways to the huge lake leading all the way to Kochi itself.

The size of the boat will limit which channels you can go through if you’re travelling as a bigger group, although canoe is the only way to explore some of the narrowest.

We headed out with our paddles for a short excursion just before sunset, with our guide showing us how to make necklaces from waterlilies and chatting with locals on the banks as we paddled slowly past.

If you’re not sure how to get around Kerala with kids, the 12Go website is great for comparing private and public transport, as well as helping sort out reservations

We also stopped at Champakulam, home to one of the oldest Christian churches in Kerala, believed to have been established in the 5th century – as well as a fascinating wood carver’s workshop, at St Thomas Fine Arts, where we chatted to the owner as he carved a new religious statue for another church.

You can also opt for massages along the way (we didn’t) or to stop and pick up konju, the huge bluey green freshwater prawns (we did) to add to our lavish meals.

But one of the best parts of the cruise is simply the chance to watch the scenery and the people: palm trees reflecting in the still water, the sun reflecting golden as it sets, locals washing clothes on the banks, a water bus bringing people home at night, canoes laden with huge cargoes of grass.

There are day cruises as well as overnight stays, which last slightly under 24 hours – for me, even one day really wasn’t enough.

Where to stay in Alleppey and the backwaters

There’s a huge variety of different houseboats, from the more authentic to the super-swanky – a compromise solution means you can still get a taste of the tradition while having aircon (at night, at least), en-suite bathroom and a mosquito net over the bed.

It’s hot and humid even after dark falls, so air con is one luxury I was glad to have. Do take mosquito repellent.

You can simply turn up to Alleppey and haggle for a houseboat: they dock at around 9am and depart at around noon/12.30, so time your visit after their return for the biggest choice.

If you’d rather have something sorted before you arrive in Kerala, especially if you’re travelling with kids, I loved the houseboats from Lakes & Lagoons, booked through i-escape. As well as amazing meals on board, they’ll organise excursions too and as they depart from a private dock (with a little shop selling alcohol!), it’s less busy.

Tip: With slightly less than 24 hours on board, the time goes back faster than you expect once you add stops and excursions in – next time, I’d go for two nights to have a bit longer simply drifting along the backwaters and drinking in the view. A boat with a big comfy lounging area is a bonus as well!

Day six to eight: Munnar – PLAN A

The other side of Kerala – away from the beaches and the backwaters, the hills are a fantastic contrast to the coast and Kochi. And as a bonus, noticeably cooler (although it’s worth remembering the altitude makes it easier to burn so don’t ditch the SPF).

Travelling steadily upwards from Alleppey, the landscape gets lusher and greener with the bright colours of small villages breaking up the scenery along the winding road. Keep your eyes peeled for monkeys as you go.

And the hills themselves are covered in tea bushes, the emerald green in unexpected swirls and terraces as it stretches over the slopes, winding up inclines and clinging to ridges with huge boulders littered in between, as if giants had been interrupted during some kind of game.

It’s perfect if you love trekking, although as the plantations are private property, you’ll need to head out with a guide as it’s tricky to wander solo. There’s also a tea museum just outside Munnar, to introduce visitors to the process involved in making tea, as well as its history – plus it’s set on an employee-owned working plantation.

You can also explore Munnar itself: not the most picturesque town perhaps, but its bustling centre is home to a busy market, mosque, church and temple for a glimpse of life in Kerala.

Where to stay in Munnar

I loved Windermere Estate – colonial-style rooms on a working tea plantation, which also grows coffee and cardamom, they have a regular walk through the plantation spotting birds and plants, as well as some fantastic views.

The food (a set menu with regularly changing choices, and options for different dietary requirements) was so delicious I ate until I was beyond full.

There’s also a small (unheated) pool and hammocks to laze in, as well as additional activities such as tea tasting. They can also arrange excursions, and sorted out the transfers to the hotel from Alleppey and back to Kochi.

Tip: It’s a long drive if you’re visiting with kids – four to five hours from Alleppey, and then three to four hours back to Kochi or the airport. Audible’s audiobooks are my failsafe for long car journeys with my daughter although if you’re visiting after the monsoon season, there are also waterfalls to stop at along the way – visiting in February, the lack of rain meant it wasn’t really worth it when we visited.

We split our time in Kochi because of the wedding, so you could do something similar and spend a bit longer exploring Fort Kochi at the end of your Kerala trip.

Otherwise, if you’re heading straight back to the airport, I’d recommend booking into an airport hotel before a morning flight – Nedumbassery is closer to Munnar than Kochi itself, but it’s still a long drive. Flora Airport Hotel is minutes away from the terminals with a free shuttle and a small rooftop pool.

If you’re not sure how to get around Kerala with kids, the 12Go website is great for comparing private and public transport, as well as helping sort out reservations

Day six to eight: Kerala’s beaches – PLAN B

If you’d rather hit the beach than head to the hills – or are travelling with younger kids who are likely to enjoy the surf more than hilltop plantations, there are some great stretches of sand for a relaxed end to your Kerala trip plan.

Where to stay on Kerala’s beaches

Varkala has one of the best beaches in Kerala, although it’s worth knowing it’s set at the bottom of a cliff so not ideal if you’re visiting Kerala with a toddler or baby.

You also have an aquarium to explore as well as the Janardana Swami Temple nearby if you want to mix paddling with a bit more Indian culture – the surf here means paddling is all that’s safe.

Check out the Gateway hotel, which also has a pool and is only a short walk from the beach.

It’s also a long drive back to the airport at the end of your trip, unless you fly back from Trivandrum International Airport – also an option with Oman Air and other airlines travelling via the UAE.

Kovalam is equally lovely but even further away from Alleppey so if you do only have a week, it’s not my top choice as part of the best itinerary for Kerala.

Marari is quieter but is much closer to Alleppey, so easy to fit in after exploring the backwaters for a chilled-out end to the trip. One of the beach beaches in Kerala for swimming, it’s perfect for families – also ideal if you’ve got younger kids and want to limit any journeys to about 90 minutes as well.

The five villas at Marari Villas are right on the beach – some have their own private pools, others share, while some even have a private beach area. Or if you prefer a hotel, check out the Marari Beach Resort.

Otherwise, beautiful Cherai beach on Vypin Island is north of Fort Kochi, so it’s a longer drive from Alleppey but much closer to the airport at Nedumbassery for the return journey. Almost 10 miles long, its seashell studded white sands are between the sea and the backwaters, which makes it unique.

The Sea Lagoon Health Resort also has a great pool plus views of the backwaters and beach, with a family-friendly welcome.

For more reasons to visit Kerala, check out my top six

*First published 2019, updated 2020*

PIN FOR LATER: ONE WEEK IN KERALA ITINERARY

Disclosure: Contains affiliate links – any purchases you make are unaffected but I may receive a small commission. All the hotels included are ones I stayed in myself or would recommend.

Images copyright MummyTravels

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