Costa Barcelona: One day in Calella, Spain
It’s hard to know which of Calella’s claims to fame to focus on first: perhaps the fact it’s an official ‘Catalan Family Holiday Destination’, one of the earliest to get the coveted title. Or perhaps its importance among the beach resorts of the Costa Barcelona, given city status after being granted a licence to hold a market back in the 14th century.
press trip*
Maybe it’s because of the fascinating lighthouse high above the centre, still functioning and one of only four in Spain where the city has the authority to look after it.
Or it could just be the mix of everything – history, tradition, family-friendly atmosphere and lovely beach – which made it so enormously appealing, one of my favourite stops in our tour of the Costa Barcelona. With less than one day in Calella, here’s why you should spend a lot longer.
One day in Calella, Spain: Start at the lighthouse
First opening in 1859, the lighthouse is still the symbol of the city. A short way outside the centre, you can walk along the beachfront and up the hill to discover a communications museum inside.
The last lighthouse keeper left in 1993, but the computerised system is still functioning, its own special combination of three short and one long flash beaming out onto the Mediterranean and visible up to 35 miles away.
You’ll probably come for the views: of the lighthouse itself, white against the blue sky, or the panorama of the wooded hills on one side and the golden sands along the other. But while you can’t go up into the tower itself, do make time for the museum.
Here you’ll discover that the lamp was originally lit with olive oil and that pirates once plagued the coast of Spain, while the lighthouse keeper and his family were still consigned to an isolated existence, despite being a short walk from town rather than marooned on a sea-battered rock.
The exhibits inside are even more fascinating, looking at the different means of communication from a burning light to optical towers which ran up the coast to France, as well as the different chimes of church bells with their variety of messages, including storm warnings and the death of an archbishop.
There are video installations, interactive models and maps, so it’s great for kids as well as adults.
If you’re staying in Calella, there are also regular concerts at the lighthouse with a small train running up from the tourist information office.
The price varies but it’s rarely over 10 Euros and kids are always free. Entrance to the lighthouse and museums costs only a couple of Euros with opening hours depending which month you visit.
One day in Calella, Spain: Wander the old town
The city takes its family-friendly status seriously, as you’ll see if you take a wander through the streets of the old town.
Lampposts have regularly changing pictures for children to spot, the library has storytelling and activities, and the leafy peaceful Parc Dalmau, with its existing play areas and Spanish civil war air shelter, is scheduled for renovation to update the facilities further.
As you wander, keep an eye out for the cactus house – so called because the owner has grown enough cacti to decorate the outside – as well as the picturesque historic buildings around the Ajuntament Vell de Calella, or Old Town Hall, now a cultural centre with a fantastic huge old door.
Many have symbolic shields, designs and even figures outside, while the 14th century chapel of St Quirze and Sta Julita doubled as an even earlier town hall.
By happy coincidence, we visited during September’s Festa Major – the city’s biggest celebration, in honour of the patron saint, when traditions dating back to medieval times still continue.
The ‘Capgrossos’ or giants of Calella are the focus of processions, the gigantic figures towering over the people and children clustering around.
One, a jester figure, was the centre of attention, happy to pose for photos in what must have been a pretty warm costume on a sunny September day.
Down on the waterfront, there was a huge market showcasing local arts and crafts, and more food than you can shake a cured sausage at, along with some imaginative and creative areas for kids, music, a flower-strewn chill-out area, and generally lots of temptations to wander and spend money.
But there are events year-round, including an Oktoberfest beer festival.
One day in Calella, Spain: Hit the beach
The biggest temptation for most visitors is the beach. Strictly speaking, several beaches, including the Blue Flag Platja de Garbi which is adapted for wheelchairs and the ‘big’ beach or Platja Gran with its watersports centre and beach clubs.
After ditching the idea of canoeing or sailing a catamaran (and not having chance to parasail), we all headed out on a banana boat ride – one of my 13 things to do on the Costa Barcelona.
It’s open to children aged five and up… with the staff giving a much gentler ride if there are kids on the inflatable.
No such chance for us: we whizzed along behind the boat as they grinned, videoing away until inevitably we all ended up in the water (this being the Mediterranean, it was still pretty warm and our lifejackets had us bobbing back up straight away. The hardest part was getting back on again!)
On the sands, there are free family activities every day and evening during summer as well, with several beach clubs dotted along the seafront – keep an eye out for the lunchtime menu of the day, at around 12 euros including wine, with paella normally on offer on Thursdays.
Don’t make any energetic plans for the afternoon though.
We settled down at Nui Beach club, which manages to be chic and chilled out at the same time, with a outdoor area for snacks, sunbeds, and a restaurant indoors which makes you understand why lunch takes three hours in Spain.
As well as paella, there’s a baked rice version and fideua made with noodles instead of rice: so good we tried all three, along with addictive bread rubbed with tomato and garlic, meltingly good ham and seafood, all accompanied by local wine.
Mini gourmands will be all but in heaven, there’s a kids’ menu too for less enterprising eaters like my daughter.
Not too hungry? Go for a ‘vermouth’ – an aperitif with snacks before dinner, usually a few euros, for olives, cockles and crisps accompanied by a refreshing drink made with red martini.
More than one day in Calella, Spain?
Honestly, one day isn’t enough – you’re around an hour from Barcelona on the train if you fancy a journey along the coast and a taste of Gaudi (or the zoo and aquarium).
Or you’re around an hour’s drive from Montseny natural park, a biosphere reserve, plus the organic wines and vineyard at Alta Alella.
We stayed at Camping Roca Grossa on the outskirts of town, with two lovely pools, sports facilities and play area (all on a very steep hill if you’re travelling with a buggy), although there are plenty of hotels in Calella itself if you’d rather be in the heart of everything.
Check out my video review of Camping Roca Grossa
Back to Calella’s claims to fame… The biggest was that from all our stops on a hugely fun trip, this is the place I could see myself wandering with my daughter, eating ice cream as we amble along cobbled streets, claiming a spot on the beach and building a gigantic sandcastle, then coming home with the kind of happy grins that I saw on everyone else that day.
PIN FOR LATER: ONE DAY IN CALELLA, SPAIN
Disclosure: My trip was courtesy of Costa Barcelona tourism. All opinions and ability to eat three different kinds of paella in one sitting are my own.
Images and video copyright MummyTravels
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Lovely pics – enjoying the series of costa Barcelona posts #citytripping
Thank you! It was a lovely area to explore.
Very impressed with your capacity for paella! Looks like a beautiful place to build up an appetitie.
#citytripping
All in the name of research! I didn’t eat the entire pan, I hasten to add…
Calella looks like a very pretty town. I love Spanish food and your photos are enough to make my mouth water! 🙂 #citytripping
It is lovely – wandering around the old town and then ending up at the beach is perfect.
What a delightful place. I’ve never heard of it so great to hear about these hidden Spanish cities and even more of a bonus that it has a family-friendly reputation to protect. The food, the lighthouse all sounds perfect. Like your videos too! #citytripping
Thanks! I was slightly impressed that I’d managed to capture myself twice after being dunked in the water in a single video!
Up until reading this post I had never heard of Calella. How did you decide to visit? (Or maybe it’s better known in Europe?)
I loved reading about the lighthouse! And those beaches look amazing! I could see how Calella would be a great day trip!
#citytripping
It’s actually not very well known even in Europe – I went on a trip with the tourist board, to look at what there is to see in the area beyond Barcelona itself (lots, it turns out!). Calella was one of my favourite spots.
What an adorable area of Spain! I love how every different town still breathes a Spanish charm all its own. I love any place with a lighthouse! #citytripping
I do love a lighthouse too – and you’re right, everywhere had its own individual charm even in a relatively small area.
interesting festival. all that food looks yummy! #citytripping
Was absolutely delicious!
I never knew much about this area of Spain – looks like definitely a place to visit! Great pics and I want to see the cactus house now -sounds brilliant!
Definitely – and the catcus house was very fun, green prickly plants growing across the balcony and all round.
Ooh I love a festival. Festa Major sounds like so much fun. Spanish adventures are looming and so, as always, bookmarking and pinning for future reference
It was great – the perfect day to happen upon the city. Looking forward to seeing what you get up to on your Spanish adventures.
I think the Festa Mayor would be a privilege and delight to see. What a spectacle! A colourful and curious tradition.
#citytripping
It’s always fascinating to see such old traditions carrying on today.
Oh, it looks so gorgeous! I was in Spain the same time as you and eagerly following along on your adventures and still only managed to drag myself away from the beach for a quick visit to Barcelona! This tiny town looks gorgeous I’m definitely pinning this in hopes that I’ll explore more on my third trip! #CityTripping
It was really lovely – I hadn’t realised you were there at the same time. Definitely a good reason to go back again and explore further!
A great article Cathy. I heard that Calella was family friendly, but I didn’t realise just how much. My kids would love the train ride. I have shared this on my Pinterest page. #citytripping
Thanks Jo – yes, I think the train journey along the coast would be a big hit with my daughter as well. Love the idea of making Calella our base and popping in to Barcelona for a day. Thanks for pinning!
Calella sounds like the perfect family spot and so fun you could go during the festival. Spanish festivals are the best! I have to say – your photos of food are amazing. I have such a hard time photographing food but you have made me really hungry now;). #citytripping
Thank you! The food was properly mouth-watering, we actually had to keep asking for smaller meals 🙂
Love the view from the lighthouse! And good food is definitely a bonus. #CityTripping
It’s a great viewpoint, lovely to look out along the coast.
Looks like a lovely place for a family holiday Cathy. I was particularly interested to read about the lighthouse.
Definitely – they seem really to have thought through what works for families, and the lighthouse history was fascinating.
This looks like a perfect day spent in a lovely beach town! We haven’t yet made it to coastal Spain, but it looks like we need to!
Definitely one for the list – was such a lovely day exploring.
Oh I really wanna go on a banana boat ride now!! And also have some Spanish tapas!! 😉
Have a nice day 🙂
Umberta
Was very fun – I knew when we all climbed on that there was no way we would be getting back without at least one dunking…
That’s a lovely balance of fun water sports, history and food!
It is a great mix!
Aw man, what is it with the Spanish and their large headed costumes – so freaky! On a different note : I do love a good lighthouse!
And, your food pictures make me drool – we were just saying the other day how much our family enjoys Spanish food from tapas to Paella. #citytripping
They are so unusual, aren’t they – and thanks, the food was amazing there, I still drool a little whenever I remember it all.
The banana boat looks like its superfun. I want to have a go! #citytripping
It really was – even being dunked in the sea!
Nice blog and awesome banana boat ride.
Thanks! Very fun.
You got a lot out of your trip to the Barca coast 🙂 #citytripping
I try! 🙂
Really looks lovely – nice to see a more traditional bit of the coast.
Very lovely – definitely worth heading out of the city
I do love the Barcelona coastline and have heard great things about Calella from family. I’d wander the lighthouse and the old town whilst the kids did the banana boat! Enjoyed reading this via BritMums Spain travel round up.
Thanks – it was lovely there, the lighthouse was fantastic especially but lovely to wander round too