One day in Grand Turk: serendipity and shipwrecks
Serendipity – the art of making happy discoveries by chance. Appropriately, the name was inspired by travel, taken from Serendib, the Arabic name for Sri Lanka, stumbled across by traders centuries ago. That’s one explanation at least. But there’s nothing like travel for happy discoveries as my day in Grand Turk reminded me.
In fact, we had less than half a day on the island, the capital of the Turks & Caicos. As Grand Turk is around seven square miles, with a population of approximately 3,700 people – roughly the same number of passengers on our cruise ship, Carnival Breeze – it’s not as stingy as it might seem.
At first, it seemed things were not going according to plan. When we got off the ship, we felt the first spots of rain… which got heavier and heavier. So we hopped into a taxi to Cockburn Town, the tiny capital city.
And discovered we’d stumbled upon a tour. Our multitasking driver was conveying some people to the island’s beaches, and giving a few more a tour of the island, so on our way to Cockburn Town – and what’s dubbed historic Downtown to visitors – we got a bit of background for free.
The Turks & Caicos islands are officially a British Overseas Territory, which means that archaically, we still dispatch a Governor to act as head of state and appoint ministers in this slice of the Caribbean.
As a bonus, he (or she) also gets a pastel coloured mansion in its own grounds, backing onto one of the island’s most beautiful stretches of sand, Governor’s beach.
Far more imposing than the string of Government buildings we drove past, mostly quiet and slightly dusty, white paint starting to peel in the heat.
As well as the Turk’s Cap cacti which give the islands their name, plus the salt pans that formed its first industry in the 17th century, there’s a replica of John Glenn’s Friendship 7 shuttle, which landed off the coast in 1962.
But before long, you’re into Cockburn Town itself, with black plaques attached to the most historic buildings, the oldest of which rarely topped 150 years.
On one long street running along the coast, there’s room for two not very secret societies including the Freemasons, an old prison housing around half a dozen prisoners at a time (whose friends would throw cigarettes over the wall to the inmates at night), a brightly coloured church plus pastel-coloured shacks and huts, selling souvenirs and drinks.
As we came in to town, a man rode past us on a horse. I loved it.
The serendipitous discovery, meanwhile, came from the National Museum of the Turks & Caicos. You might not think a national museum is too hidden a secret, but apart from the sign, this looked more like a typical Caribbean house, white wood and a balcony upstairs.
Inside, it’s a treasure trove. There are displays on everything from Glenn’s shuttle to colonial memorabilia including a pursed-lipped photo of Queen Victoria, plus details of the Taino and Lucayan Indians who first lived here.
But most fascinating is the Grand Turk shipwreck found on the edge of the reef surrounding the islands, the third largest barrier reef in the world. The Molasses Reef Wreck, as it’s called, is a caravel dating back to the Age of Discovery, the same kind of ship that Columbus sailed.
And while more ancient Viking and Egyptian vessels have been found, this is the only example of a caravel and the oldest European wreck to be found in the New World.
Despite optimistic suggestions that the Grand Turk shipwreck might have been one of Columbus’ own ships, it’s more likely to have been a slaving vessel.
Marine archaeologists have dated it to before 1513 thanks to the discovery of some of the weaponry, haquebuts which weren’t used after 1515, as well as the total lack of treasure and coins which puts it before the Mexican conquest.
After all, why take coins when there’s nowhere to spend them, as museum guide Nikki pointed out. The treasure itself is in the detail, the cannon, pottery, surgical instruments and anchor, which are among the artefacts discovered, giving us a picture of life on this sea voyage.
A video shows details of the original dives and excavations (complete with fantastic 80s hair on the archaeological team) and there are displays and maps to pore over.
Then we emerged, blinking into the light, the rain shower long over to look out at the waves which claimed the ship so many centuries ago.
One day in Grand Turk: Need to know
Entry costs $5. Limited opening hours on Monday to Thursdays, and opens for cruise ship visits, more details on the museum’s website.
For more tempting reasons to visit the Turks & Caicos islands with kids, check out my review of Beaches Turks & Caicos on Providenciales
Disclosure: My Caribbean cruise was courtesy of Carnival Cruises – payment for entry to the museum and all opinions are my own.
All images copyright MummyTravels/Cathy Winston
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I hadn’t realised you were on the cruise with Liz and Penny! Looks heavenly.
Actually a different Carnival cruise a few months ago (although both stopped at the gorgeous Grand Turk). Was lovely, my favourite stop of the three I think.
I didn’t know about this ship, how cool! It is dated of 13 years after my country (Brazil) was discovered by Columbus!
And oh wow, the population of Grand Turk is very small… but I could have imagined since it is an island 😀
Turks and Caicos is on my diving bucket list!!!
Another great post of yours for #MondayEscapes 😀
Amazing, isn’t it – tucked away in this tiny sleepy museum in a very sleep capital (I think quite a few of the other islands are bigger!). I would have loved to dive in the Turks & Caicos too, but we only had a single day stop on a cruise. Definitely one to go back to 😀
Amazing that one cruise ship doubles the island population, scary really. I love serendipitous moments like this when travelling. If it hadn’t been raining you’d probably never have gone into the museum. Rain can be good!! Thanks for hosting #citytripping
It’s astonishing, isn’t it. Although I suspect a very large percentage of the passengers never made it more than about 100m from the ship (which I find faintly inexplicable but the islanders are probably quite thankful for).
Very inspiring post. These white chalked houses in the sun with the blue water … Just looking out of the window in Cambridge, it’s raining and ice cold! What are we doing here?!
Thanks! It’s grey and pouring here too – I would take the Caribbean, drizzly or not, any day!
Your stop in Turks and Caicos sounds great Cathy, even if it wasn’t quite the sunny beach experience you were expecting!
It was a great stop – we did squeeze in a bit of time on the beach at the end as well, but I’d much rather explore than just paddle.
What a cool cruise!! Love the little historical details that we really can’t learn about unless we are in that specific place. I love when museums don’t look like museums, too! 🙂 Thanks for the link-up! #citytripping
It was such an amazing trip – and absolutely, it’s fascinating to discover all this history about places that I knew almost nothing about before visiting.
I never knew Turks he third largest barrier reef in the world – I really need to go there to do some diving! #citytripping
I know – it seems such an overlooked little corner of the Caribbean. Would have loved to have done some diving/snorkelling too, but too tricky to arrange that with a 17-month-old on my own!
What a great place to visit. I love the bright colours on the buildings, it makes it all look so clean and fresh. I’d love to go on a cruise one day! #CityTripping
It was such a beautiful island, one of my favourite experiences from the trip. I am a total cruise convert.
I love those little undiscovered museums. Always feel a bit like Columbus myself when I stumble across them. And the destination looks enchanting. Embrace the rain…
Exactly – these fabulous quirky treasure troves, which hardly anyone else seems to have found. And the island was gorgeous, in drizzle and sun.
I’ve heard good things about Turks and Caicos – would love to visit. What a quaint city. The Governor who lives there is one lucky person by the sounds of things. The shipwreck sounds fascinating. #citytripping
I’d love to visit some of the other islands in the chain as well, they sound stunning. And the Governor is very lucky (although I wonder if he has to be formal and bureaucratic, rather than getting much chance to enjoy the white sand and snorkelling…)
Ooh a mysterious shipwreck and lost treasure – how wonderful! I’ve never been on a cruise but stop offs like this make them more appealing!
Definitely – I love the fact that you do get a taste of little places like this which you might otherwise never visit. And it ties in nicely to my Indiana Jones wish fulfilment dreams…
Oh very cool! I love stumbling upon interesting, hidden places (who doesn’t I guess!) when I’m travelling. I would definitely love to have a look around the museum.
Definitely – that feeling of having found something hardly anyone else sees 🙂
oh wow. I wish I could travel here:)
Would love to be back there today…!
These days (due to the internet) I find it quite rare to get that serendipitous element of surprise on your travels so when you do it is all the more special and equally so when it is via an old museum displaying interesting one offs. Good things come in small packages and sounds like that’s what happened on your short trip to Grand TurkLovely inspirational post Cathy. #Citytripping
That’s definitely true – makes it all the more special. Thanks!
The museum sounds so interesting…as a fellow diver I would have loved watching the video about the first dives and excavations 🙂
It was fascinating – definitely wish I could have dived there.
How little we know how little we know! That’s the best thing about travel for me – the discovery…there’s always something you didin’t know!
Exactly! Even when you’re not expecting it.
I think I could happily take on the role of Governor in Grand Turk! I love the colours of the Caribbean, great photos and great story! #citytripping
Thanks! – and I agree, doesn’t sound like the worst job in the world 🙂
The photos remind me of Santorini and my cruise of the Greek Islands! How I yearn to go on a cruise again… #Citytripping
It’s that gorgeous water, isn’t it – would love another cruise myself.
The story about the shipwreck is very interesting. I guess that is one of the preferred subject in the Caribbean. In Puerto Rico, there are tons of stories about “hidden” shipwrecks in this or that beach. A lot of people talk about the treasures laying on the shipwrecks too.
It’s always so exciting to think there might be hidden treasure on the seabed – although I wonder how much can be undiscovered these days.
Good things always happen unexpectedly, like in this case, it rained and you ended up at this museum 🙂 Love the idea of a Caribbean home as a museum – love the white-washed walls and bright aquamarine colour. #CityTripping
Exactly! Very glad that’s how it turned out.
Those shells & turquoises! Would love to visit that neck of the woods, never visited before
It is one of my ‘happy pictures’ if it’s grey and stressful, I just gaze at that scene. Such a lovely part of the world.
I love your definition of serendipity. Has to be one of my favourite words. That wreck sounds fascinating. The Turks and Caicos are definitely on my bucket list. #citytripping
I was very pleased when I came across it around the time of my Sri Lanka trip – loved the reasons. And I’d love to spend more time on the Turks & Caicos too, so beautiful.
I love the photo of the conch shells. And what a fascinating find with the museum! The story behind the shipwreck is very interesting and I’d love to dive there. I enjoy your posts on the Caribbean, I’ve only been to Jamaica so far and would love to explore the area more, perhaps on a cruise like this. #CityTripping
Thanks! I think a cruise is a great way to start off – a day stop isn’t enough for a lot of the islands, but I think it helps you work out which you’d want to revisit. And some are pretty compact 🙂
I love a good tour. So much more fun than just wandering around ignorantly. 🙂 #citytripping
Definitely a good way to start off, I think.
I love the colorful Caribbean!! Have not been on this island yet.
#citytripping
I do love the Caribbean too.