Review: Marble Hill House with kids

An elegant Georgian home, the fascinating story of an 18th century woman of letters and a string of family-friendly activities, not to mention free entry, mean a day at Marble Hill House with kids is unmissable.

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Reopened after a major five-year restoration project, the neo-Palladian villa in Twickenham, south-west London has been restored to the way it would have looked when Henrietta Howard, Countess of Suffolk had her fashionable country retreat built.

Its gardens have also been restored to their former glory, with games to try, unexpected landmarks to spot and plenty of attractive paths to wander at this Thames-side villa, plus a family trail available to help explore inside if you’re visiting Marble Hill House with kids.

And unlike some historic houses, there’s a real sense here that you’re visiting a home – as well as getting to understand Henrietta Howard herself, whose own life seems to be so packed with drama and adversity, that it’s hard to understand why she isn’t better known.

Born into the Hobart family at Blickling Hall in Norfolk, Henrietta was orphaned by 12 and her first marriage to Charles Howard, Duke of Suffolk was – to put it bluntly – a disaster. A violent drunk, a gambler, a womaniser, he spent all her money, reducing them to living under an assumed name struggling to pay the rent on their rooms in Soho.

Ever resourceful, Henrietta decided to leave England towards the end of Queen Anne’s reign and ingratiate herself at the Hanoverian court – with huge success. Appointed Woman of the Bedchamber to the future Queen Caroline, she also became mistress to Caroline’s husband, George II, a star of the Georgian court and a friend to literary giants including Jonathan Swift and Alexander Pope, among others.

With royal support, she left her husband, and despite struggling with increasing deafness from her 30s onwards, went on to create Marble Hill House in 1724 before retiring from court life 10 years later and finding happiness with her second husband, as well as enjoying a social life said to rival the royal court itself.

And as you explore the house, it brings to life not only the Georgian era when Henrietta lived, but the happy end of her own story, with some items from her own collection, the rooms designed in her elegant restrained taste right down to original paint colours, and a chance to meet some of the key figures in her life – including her great-niece.

If Henrietta’s own story is absorbing enough on its own for older kids (and parents), the family trail is a perfect way to engage younger children as you wander through the rooms and gardens.

Focused around Daniel Crafts, the man responsible for the gardens, and Fop the dog, there are ideas for different activities and ways to get hands on: even the design is rather lovely, unfolding from an envelope to open and look like the villa and grounds.

Unlike some palatial mansions, where it’s easy to feel overwhelmed, there are only around a dozen rooms to explore inside, each with something to engage families.

At the start, the welcome room plays a short film introducing visitors to Henrietta, with little dioramas to show scenes of Georgian life.

Then you stroll on into the Hall, with a portrait of Henrietta looking down from the walls. From here, you can keep walking into the gardens, or head through the other rooms – plus a little card game and chance to get to know some of the Countess’s important and influential neighbours.

In the breakfast parlour, you’ll find the table laid and ready – Henrietta was a big collector of Chinese porcelain – as well as information on the tea and coffee trade and a question for kids to answer in the trail.

As a soundtrack in the background, you can hear quotes from Henrietta’s own writings and letters too.

Each room has folders with more information and somewhere to sit and read it – if you get chance before being taken on to the next stop on the trail.

Don’t miss the glorious wallpaper in the dining room (and a chance to spot Fop), and stop to eye up the carved mahogany bannisters before you head up the staircase to the first floor.

There are replicas of some of the carvings, encouraging visitors to imagine all the many hands which have touched the wood over the centuries, along with an extract from a poem by Malika Booker prompting visitors to consider the way a wood like mahogany is tied to the history of enslavement and colonialism.

On the first floor are some of the most interesting rooms for younger kids: spot the lacquer screen and peacock tables in the Great Room (the one on the left is original, the sole survivor of the four which once decorated the room), dip into her sewing basket and take up Fop’s dancing challenge.

This is where Henrietta would often entertain her friends, with dancing, cards and conversation until late into the night.

Handily her bedchamber is right next door, with its lavish green hangings around the bed and brass ‘hearing horn’ – if you listen, there’s a soundscape created to make you think about what it’s like to lose your hearing, as the Countess herself did.

The door at the end leads into Miss Hotham’s bedroom, once occupied by Henrietta’s great-niece.

Also named Henrietta, she was a fan of embroidery and mimicking animal noises, and the small desk in the corner is furnished to represent the 10-year-old’s interests.

You’ll find hats to try on as well, and a four-poster bed that would be the envy of most 10-year-olds today.

Both Henriettas had dogs as pets, and in the dressing room there’s a chance to write a letter to your pet – plus lots of playful details, including the fact that the Countess replied to a letter written to her own dog Marquise and signed it with a paw.

While Henrietta’s second marriage to George Berkeley was a happy one, apart from his lavish red damask bedchamber, it would be easy to overlook him completely: this house is very definitely Henrietta’s creation.

After promenading through the Gallery upstairs, as Georgian ladies would have done when weather was bad, admiring the furniture on loan from the V&A and discovering more of her collection behind a cupboard door, the gardens await.

Divided into four ‘quarters’, each has its own personality too. Recreated from a plan dating back to 1749 and archaeological excavations, the original gardens were designed by Charles Bridgeman – later royal gardener – as well as Henrietta and Alexander Pope.

Today, along with the lawns leading down to the river entrance, you can see the ice house and grotto, as well as the pretty flower garden, with plenty more activities and challenges for kids on the trail.

A beehive installation in the old orchard, now replanted with more fruit trees including plums and greengages, shares information about the nature and ecology of the area.

But most fun of all is Ninepin alley, to one side of the lawn – you can have a go at playing ninepins (a lot chunkier and harder to knock down than most bowling pins!) with instructions for this, as well as battledore and shuttlecock on the barrow.

Spot the little mice and discover more about the fruit and vegetables grown, the dishes that the cook might have created for Henrietta… and how the gardener scared the birds away from his precious seeds.

Looking back up the grassy slope towards the creamy white villa, it’s always tempting to imagine what life must have been like in England’s historic houses in days gone by – but this is one of the first where it genuinely feels like a home.

Visiting Marble Hill House with kids: need to know

The house is a 10-minute walk from St Margaret’s train station, with trains running to Waterloo and Wimbledon – the journey takes around 30 minutes from each.

Richmond tube station is one mile away with buses running to within a five to 10 minute walk of Marble Hill House.

There is also a small car park: parking is free for English Heritage members, there is a charge otherwise (and you can pay via parking app).

Entry to the English Heritage site is free – prebooked tickets are recommended, with entry at any point during the day (you can book up to 8.45am on the day of your visit).

The house is closed on Mondays (apart from some bank holidays) and Tuesdays, and shuts for the winter from November to March (apart from some days over Christmas and New Year). Check here for more details of opening times at Marble Hill House.

As well as the kids’ trails, there is a cafe on the site, including toilets at the cafe and in the house, plus baby changing facilities.

There is also a play area in the park (and 65 acres of grounds, so you’re not short of space for kids to burn off some energy).

It’s easy to combine with time exploring Twickenham as well – there’s 10% off the Twickenham treasure hunt from Treasure Map Trails if you use code MUMMYTRAVELS

Main image: Christopher Ison for English Heritage, all others copyright MummyTravels

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links – any purchases you make are unaffected but I may receive a small commission. I was invited to a press preview before the reopening of Marble Hill House for the purposes of review: all opinions on visiting Marble Hill House with kids remain my own.

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