One day on Hvar with kids, Croatia
One of the easiest day trips from Split (as well as to Krka National park) is hopping on a ferry to one of the nearby islands – and with both fast ferries and lots to do, it’s easy to fill one day on Hvar with kids.
contains affiliate links*
In summer, it’s all about the beach bars and nightlife, and the island has a reputation as a celebrity hotspot, but in April, it was still quiet – perfect for exploring.
Our ferry brought us straight into Hvar Town, in easy walking distance of some of the historic sites, a string of beaches, and the enticing old streets with their amazing views back down to the sea.
Others arrive at Stari Grad, Hvar’s old town, around a 30 minute bus ride away from Hvar Town (or 20 minutes by Uber) so it’s possible to visit both during the same day if you want, or there’s plenty to fill a day if you want to base yourself around one or the other.
Contents - click to jump to a section
Hvar Fortress (Spanjola)
We started our day on Hvar looking down on the island – by walking up to the fortress, with its fantastic views back down onto Hvar Town and the sea.
Even without the chance to soak up the scenery, it’s well worth exploring inside the old fort – known both as Fortica and Spanjola.
Dating back to the 16th century, there has been a fort of some kind since the first millennium BCE, when it protected the nearby Illyrian settlement, followed by a Byzantine citadel, probably built during the reign of the Roman Emperor Justinian.
Today’s fortress owes its beginnings to Venetians, who created their own fortifications in 1278, when they ruled the island, although the current structure was constructed in around 1551, protecting the island’s inhabitants from attacks by the Turks.
Further additions in the 17th and 18th century, under Austrian rule, extended it further, until Hvar lost its strategic significance – since then, the garrison was abandoned, and it was left (so local folklore says) for the ‘fairies to dance in at night’.
While there weren’t any fairies out during the day, there’s plenty still to see. Quite a few of the buildings are intact, although there isn’t a huge amount to see inside the rooms.
There are a couple of displays though, with some archaeological finds unearthed from wrecks off the coast of Hvar island, and a chance to look inside the old prison, with its old pillory. If you’re brave enough, you can even step down into one of the small stone cells (no locks or doors, so i’s not too risky!)
Plus you can pretend to fire the cannon at marauding invaders sailing in from the blue Adriatic sea past the Pakleni Islands.
The walk up took us around half an hour, with plenty of stops to enjoy the beautiful views, but it’s easily doable with children.
And we still had plenty of energy to spend an hour or so inside. Save some time to rest your feet after climbing up the steps and hill, and relax over a drink or ice cream in the café inside the walls, peeking out down towards the harbour.
Wander Hvar Town
One of the big pleasures of Hvar Town is simply wandering around its old streets. It’s well worth lingering over the walk up and down to the fortress too: honey-coloured stone steps lead to winding streets with more cafes and little shops tucked away amid flowers, or a string of silent doors in the sunshine.
We stopped to watch a companionable cat and dog sitting next to each other on one step, apparently enjoying the views as much as we did, before finding ourselves back on the main square.
There are several other historic buildings to visit around Hvar Town too, including St Stephen’s Cathedral, on the main square.
The 14th century cathedral, built on the site of a much older church, is well worth a quick visit – it’s not somewhere to spend ages, but the peaceful interior does have some artworks and Roman artefacts to see.
On the other side of the square, you can also see the historic theatre, built in the early 17th century. Set on the upper floor of the Arsenal (which you can also visit), its walls are decorated with frescoes.
But it pays to wander at harbour level as well, past little shops and restaurants on the backstreets. Keep an eye out for some unexpected family friendly bonuses like the little wind-up music stands – like a string of mini music boxes – which was a big hit with my daughter.
There are plenty of cafes and restaurants dotted around too: we decided to refuel over pizza and squid ink risotto at Pizza Kogo in the main square, which was delicious and far less touristy than you might expect – out of season at least.
Hit the beach
When the sun’s shining, you shouldn’t miss the chance to hit the beach – with several different choices, all with crystal clear water.
It was a bit too chilly for us to fancy swimming in April, but the little coves are very tempting. We strolled first to Plaza Lucica, not far from the old Franciscan monastery, passing the sculpture of a woman staring towards the sea.
When you’re deciding which Hvar beach to choose, it’s worth bearing in mind that all the beaches near the town are stony although they’re still perfect little suntraps to lounge, maybe paddle and just switch off.
Around the other side of the harbourfront, we grabbed an ice cream from Aroma, which has some of the best flavours I’ve ever seen – apple pie ice cream was a highlight, and there were at least a few more quirky combinations which tempted me, from orange & ginger to peach with rosemary.
A little further along is Bonj Beach and Beach Club Hvar – not yet open for the season, it was another incredibly peaceful spot… I suspect I’d have enjoyed it less in peak season with crowds and music pumping, admittedly.
With the Easter sun shining, I was quite happy to sit on the pebble beach here and relax by the waves, although the sea pool (and the turquoise sea) looked tempting if we’d been there a month or so later.
You can follow the seafront to reach it, but save some time to walk back under the shady paths of Hvar Park, with its pine trees and little play area.
Or if you continue a bit further around the coast, there’s Aquapark Hvar inflatable waterpark, which is sure to go down well with kids.
Stari Grad
My original plan had been to head over to Stari Grad as well, the old town on the other side of the island.
Quieter in peak season, it’s a good option if you’re visiting in summer, but still want to spend a day on Hvar with kids.
In many ways, it’s a more peaceful, less glitzy cousin to Hvar Town – you have the same historic streets to wander, as well as the waterfront promenade, lots of restaurants and cafes to linger in, and backstreets to stumble upon.
Look out for the Roman mosaic on Srinjo kola (Middle Street), also lined with some gorgeous shops and its own string of cafes, as well as Skor square, where noble families once had their homes and St Stephen’s Church.
For something a little more unusual, you can explore the Unesco World Heritage Stari Grad Plain – one of the oldest cultivated plains in the world. Hire bikes to cycle through, spotting some of the ruins (older kids are more likely to appreciate the history, although younger ones will enjoy the ride)
And just outside the town is Oslic Beach, another little pebbly spot to paddle near the Old Town Hvar, if you’re looking for more Hvar beaches.
But somehow, our relaxed day idling our way around Hvar Town had eaten up the time and before we knew it, it was time to head back to the mainland and the joys of Split.
For more things to do in Split with kids, check out my top picks
More things to do around Hvar with kids
If you’re planning to spend longer than a day exploring Hvar with kids, there are plenty more things to do on the island.
Visit the Pakleni Islands
You can find water taxis as well as boat tours such as this yacht tour to take you to the nearby Pakleni Islands (also known as the Paklinski islands) – or hire your own boat, if you’d rather be in charge.
It’s easy to pick up a water taxi at Hvar’s Riva, with several standard drop off points – ideal if you’d just like to escape the crowds in Hvar Town for a bit. A boat tour, or hiring your own, gives you more flexibility to beach hop, find the quieter coves and just relax between swimming in the crystal clear waters.
Take a boat trip
As well as visiting the Pakleni islands, there are a string of other tempting boat tours from Hvar, including to the Blue Cave on Biševo, which is known for its bright blue water, thanks to an opening in the roof which lets the sun shine through.
Others stop at the fishing village of Komiza where Mamma Mia was filmed, as well as Stiniva Beach, voted the best beach in Europe.
This full-day boat tour from Hvar to the Blue Cave and Vis also visit the Green Cave and the Pakleni islands, and is suitable for kids aged 1+, while this 8-hour boat trip from Hvar to the Blue Cave also stops at several locations.
Or you can combine the Blue Cave and a five islands boat tour from Hvar
Visit Dubrovnik
If you’ve got your hear set on visiting Dubrovnik during a stay around Split, you can catch a ferry from Hvar to the beautiful historic city in Croatia’s south.
There is a catamaran ferry that takes just over three hours (so it’s a very long day unless you’re planning an overnight stay in Dubrovnik) as well as the high speed ferry which takes closer four hours.
How to get to Hvar with kids
There are several difference choices if you’re looking for a ferry from Split to Hvar. The catamaran to Hvar Town is a great option if you’re going for the day, as it’s for foot passengers only (and limited luggage). It’s also great with kids as it only takes an hour – this is the option we chose.
Alternatively there are two ferries which connect Split and Hvar Town; Jadrolinija also takes around an hour, or TP Line takes around 2 hours 30 mins, so it’s a slower option if you’re visiting Hvar for the day.
Jadrolinija also runs ferries from Split to Stari Grad on Hvar, although departures are more limited in low season. This takes around two hours.
You can head down to the port at Split to book tickets, although as the kiosks and offices aren’t always open, it’s easier to book online or using an app – we booked ours using the Bookaway app, while some of the ferry companies have their own.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links – any purchases you make are unaffected but I may receive a small commission
Stari Grad/Blue Cave images courtesy of Depositphotos, all other images copyright MummyTravels
LIKED THIS? SIGN UP FOR MY EMAIL NEWSLETTER