Lindisfarne with kids – visiting Holy Island, Northumberland

There’s something I find incredibly tempting about the thought of being cut off on an island – temporarily, at least. So a visit to Holy Island was top of my Northumberland wishlist, and I set about checking what there was to do on Lindisfarne with kids.

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Half the attraction is the visit itself: crossing the causeway from the mainland, that feeling that you’ve escaped the ordinary world to somewhere a bit special.

And Holy Island certainly is special. While it’s not a big island, it’s not hard to fill a day on Lindisfarne with kids – we spent five hours there, and I’d have happily stayed longer.

Even better, I’d love to stay overnight on Holy Island to experience Lindisfarne after the day visitors have left. It was easily one of my favourite parts of our trip (against some stiff competition).

Visiting Holy Island, Northumberland: need to know

The first thing to do when you’re planning a day on Lindisfarne is to check the tides – you can take boat tours from Seahouses, and even walk across the causeway, but for most visitors (especially families), the starting point is the drive across the causeway from Beal, just off the A1.

And don’t even think about crossing outside the safe times – there are photos dotted around to warn you about those drivers who thought they could beat the sea… and failed.

The safe times will vary from month to month and year to year. During our visit in August, the causeway didn’t open until around 11.45am and stayed that way until after 8pm, when the tide came in again so we never actually got cut off.

At other times, you might find you have to be ready bright and early to get over before the waves cover the road – and know that the sea lies between you and the mainland for hours, until the tide drops again.

Once you arrive, parking on Lindisfarne is limited and there are restrictions for visitors (unless you have a blue badge) so it’s best to head straight to the main Chare Ends car park on the approach to the village – you can’t miss it on your left.

You can check the latest parking charges here – it was £4.50 for three hours, or £7 for the day when we visited, and you can pay using the Pay by Phone app.

Then it’s just a short walk into the village, past stalls selling fruit, veg, bread and honey, and then on to the main Lindisfarne attractions.

Things to do on Lindisfarne with kids

Part of the charm of a family day out on Lindisfarne is strolling around the island, soaking up the views (hopefully in the sunshine) and slowing right down.

Nowhere is very far from anywhere else (unless you’re planning to head right off the beaten track), plus there are signposts to point you in the right direction.

Lindisfarne Priory

My own favourite place to see on Lindisfarne with kids, you shouldn’t miss a visit to Lindisfarne Priory to help understand why the island is called Holy Island, as well as some of Lindisfarne’s dramatic history.

There’s a small museum at the start to give you all the background: Irish monks settled here in 635CE, given the land by the king of Northumbria.

Home to monk, bishop – and later saint – Cuthbert later in the 7th century, it flourished as a site of pilgrimage, and there are displays the early days of the priory, including on St Cuthbert and St Aidan, before the fearsome Viking attacks in the 8th century.

And as well as learning more about the early Christians and the first monasteries, kids can get hands on with a few exhibits, translating runes and seeing ancient stone crosses as well as games boards found on the site.

Despite the Vikings’ best efforts, not even these raids completely destroyed the community here… monks returned, partly to avoid the Harrying of the North by William the Conqueror, with a new monastery starting to flourish in the 12th century.

They even endured war with Scotland, with battles and skirmishes along the nearby border, until the reign of Henry VIII marked the priory’s final end, and eventual dissolution.

After the introduction, it’s just a short walk through the lovely churchyard of St Mary’s, before heading inside the priory walls.

Ruined now, it’s still fascinating to explore. The huge arch of the old monastery church with its beautiful stone tracery, gives an idea of just how big the buildings once were.

The remains of the rooms are labelled too – look out for the day and night stairs on opposite sides of the open grassy area, which the monks would have used to reach the church.

You can also wander through the old kitchens – the abbot’s quarters were once above here, to get the benefit of the heat from the fires, a real luxury in a Northumbrian winter.

There was a blackboard with a few challenges for kids, so we found ourselves peering into hole to work out which were the priory’s two wells – and what the other deep pit was for – and spotting the eye-catching sculpture of St Cuthbert within the grounds.

Even on a relatively busy sunny day, it feels a tremendously tranquil spot, strolling under the arches of the church, imagining what it must have been like with the roof soaring above, echoing to the monks’ chant.

I can imagine that out of peak season, it’s incredibly atmospheric. As you explore, look out for the wonderful views across the sea and the island to Lindisfarne Castle too.

Lindisfarne Priory: Need to know

Tickets cost from £7.90 for adults, from £4.70 for kids, plus family tickets are available: free for English Heritage members. Prebooking is recommended.

Tickets are valid for the whole day, so you don’t need to worry about making sure entry times match causeway crossing times.

You can also book online up to 8.45am on the day you want to visit and last entry is one hour before closing.

Lindisfarne Castle

Castles with a mixed history are nothing new, but few places have such an unusual past as Lindisfarne Castle.

The old Tudor fort was once the guard post that no soldier really wanted to be sent to, manning the guns and staying alert for trouble while isolated on the island – even on a bright August day in peak tourist season, it’s not hard to think how remote it must have felt.

For modern day visitors, the views are spectacular from the Upper Battery: with no need to beware of pirates and invaders (though we checked anyway), you can gaze right out to sea across the fishing boats and to the other islands.

But it’s the recent history that’s most intriguing. In the 20th century, all changed when Edward Hudson, the founder of Country Life magazine, invited architect Edwin Lutyens to transform this secluded spot into an Edwardian holiday home.

With some of the most notable artistic figures of the time staying, guests could apparently expect plenty of luxury and a famously good dinner of lobster and champagne (although sadly followed by long and very boring after-dinner speeches from their host, it seems).

Inside, it’s relatively small and you don’t need long to explore – as National Trust members, we were happy to have a quick look around without feeling the need to spend ages to get our money’s worth.

There are only a handful of rooms, and not a huge amount inside, although you’ll find intriguing little touches to discover in both the servants’ quarters and upstairs rooms, plus a digital guide to download.

During our visit, there was also a special art installation, Limelight (until October 31), based on Lidar technology which was used to map the castle.

The resulting 3D video, with its swirling images and colours is apparently something you love or hate, according to staff – I thought it was clever, but the rotating whirling shapes left me feeling slightly queasy.

Even if you choose not to go inside, check out the wonderful Gertrude Jekyll garden, a sheltered walled treat just a short walk from the castle that’s a glorious splash of colour.

It’s easy to combine with a blustery walk along the headland or a stroll on the beach (and more coastal views) too.

Lindisfarne Castle: Need to know

Tickets cost £9 for adults, £4.50 for kids with family tickets available: free to National Trust members. Tickets must be prebooked with timed entry slots and more limited opening hours outside weekends and school holidays.

There’s no charge to visit the gardens.

Head to the beach

Set around the harbour, you’ll walk past Holy Island beach on the way from the priory to the castle, so it’s an easy one to fit into a visit to Lindisfarne with kids.

There are patches of sand amongst the rocks and pebbles too, so it’s worth bringing bucket and spade as well as your net.

The best beaches on Lindisfarne are found on the north coast though: Coves Haven is backed by high dunes, and there’s also The Links and Keel Head.

These gorgeous quiet sweeps of sand are in the opposite direction to the other family attractions on Lindisfarne, so be ready to stroll away from the car park and the crowds to reach them.

Go for a walk

Wherever you go on Lindisfarne with kids, you’ll find yourself walking – even seeing some of the main sights, and strolling up to the village, priory, castle and beach will see you covering a good few miles.

But if you’d rather explore further afield, there are some lovely walking routes on Holy Island to try.

One family-friendly route follows a nature trail that takes you on a three-mile loop from the harbour to the north of the island – do stick to paths to avoid spreading the invasive pirri-pirri bur, which clings to walkers’ legs.

The Belvue Guesthouse also has some great ideas for walking routes on Lindisfarne (among other tips!) including a mile-long foreshore walk beginning at the car park, plus a slightly longer version passing the priory.

The National Trust also has a Lindisfarne Castle walk – if you wander out to the castle, keep going to the sea and loop back around the garden and past the lime kilns, you’ll see much the same.

Or for a bigger challenge, set aside a few hours to walk around the island – this five-mile route will also take you to the beaches in the north of Lindisfarne.

If you are walking by the coast, don’t be tempted to walk on the mud flats unless you are very certain of the tides – the tide can come in extremely quickly.

Spot seals

At the right time of year, you can spot grey seals on the the sand flats at Lindisfarne national nature reserve – possibly even the very occasional harbour seal.

The best way for a guaranteed seal sighting is a boat tour of the Farne Islands from Seahouses, but if you’re on Holy Island between early March and the beginnings of winter, you could see them lolling around or swimming just off the coast.

Try walking up the Heugh to try your luck – there can often be good views from Heugh Hill Lighthouse

Where to eat on Lindisfarne

A crab sandwich is traditional on Holy Island, and you’ll be spoiled for choice.

I found mine freshly made at the Island Shack food stand near the priory (worth the queue), but you can also get them at the Post Office, the island’s pubs and the food truck near the car park, just for starters.

You can also find food trucks selling fish and chips, including one on the way to the castle.

Or for something a bit fancier, there’s the Manor House Hotel, which has a restaurant (plus beer garden tables), a kid’s menu and seafood (including oysters).

Like most restaurants and pubs on Lindisfarne, it’s worth booking ahead or getting there early – in peak season, there’s a lot of demand and once everywhere’s full, well… you’re on an island cut off from the mainland, remember.

On a sunny day, don’t miss Pilgrim’s Gelato with their dark chocolate waffle cones and fabulous flavours (I went for their ‘summer’ flavour, a fruit mix including apricot, mango and pineapple), plus some great fudge.

Or next door, Pilgrim’s Coffee House has great cake to go with its coffee (and tea), as well as sandwiches.

PIN FOR LATER: VISITING LINDISFARNE WITH KIDS

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