Hampton Court Palace with a buggy
Over the centuries, Hampton Court Palace has seen everything from the ghosts of Catherine Howard’s screams (in her frantic dash to the king to plead for her life – unsuccessfully) to the lavish ‘entertainments’ of Charles II (yes, you know what I really mean but this is a family blog).
I love the history, I love its twiddly red brick chimneys, I love its maze, I love the five mattresses in Queen Anne’s ultimate princess and the pea bed, I love the fabulously ornate astrological clock glinting in the sunlight.
Which meant I didn’t need much persuading to head back with my baby daughter, and discover if you can visit Hampton Court Palace with a buggy.
Considering Hampton Court Palace is half an hour down the road from where I live (if you believe Google Maps), I’ve actually visited shamefully few times, usually contenting myself with a view of the gate as we sail past on the way to visit family in Esher.
It’s partly the entrance fee, it’s partly the fact that it is just down the road so I can go any time. Which means I almost never do. (See also, Kew Gardens).
But this week, determined to make the most of my newly free Mondays, a friend and I piled into the car with our babies – it turns out you can fit two Bugaboo Bees into the boot of a Ford Fiesta. Just. If you mostly take the parcel shelf off – to head down to Hampton Court and look around.
I’ve resigned myself to the fact that timings are much more fluid when you have a baby, so instead of arriving at 11am as planned, we left at 11.15. After an impressively explosive nappy, which took out Minnie’s spare set of clothes before we even stepped through the gates, it was already time for lunch.
And for a Tudor/Stuart palace, Hampton Court has made itself impressively family-friendly. This was just our first taste, a Very Hungry Caterpillar-themed section of the café, with high chairs galore, and just shielded enough from everyone else that you didn’t need to worry about squeals, dribbles and tray throwing (an enthusiastic neighbouring toddler).
We were also told that there were lifts to whisk buggies (and wheelchairs) up to the first floor – but they would have to call the attendant, as you went round the secret back route and through some locked doors.
To be honest, even if I hadn’t already wanted to visit the first floor, I’d have done that just for the opportunity to sneak through secret back bits of the palace. In reality, you’re not missing anything by going up the sweeping main stairs, but I cherished the thrill.
After a quick walk around the formal gardens, and a swift sweep through the kitchens, complete with mildly alarming chopping noises next to the artificial joints and commentary on the audio guide from Barry ‘who knows his meat’, we headed upstairs.
The ceiling in the intimate Chapel Royal, with its stunning, intricate patterns of gold on blue, was as gorgeous as I remember but I’d forgotten about the incredible collection of Tudor portraits which belong there – cue my giving an impromptu history lesson to my friend (she did ask, honest).
Then the Stuart section of the palace, later inhabited by the Hanoverians, including some very impressive beds, all high canopies and surprisingly small mattresses. By now, the babies were getting bored making big eyes at all the staff (who were very happy to play along), but happily distracted by some of the video installations in the bedchambers.
We’d skipped most of the audio guide commentary, as we knew we only had a limited amount of time (so no visit to the maze this time, alas) but you could easily spend all day wandering around listening, probably two days if they’d let you. But even with a few hours to spare, you can pack a lot in.
Perhaps next time, Minnie and I can get lost in the maze together.
We’ve since returned several times to this wonderful palace – discovering Hampton Court Palace with a preschooler as well as visiting Hampton Court flower show with a toddler, and more recently, exploring Hampton Court Palace after lockdown
Images copyright Mummytravels
