A Corsica short break – what to see in a long weekend

Crystal clear turquoise water sparkling alongside golden beaches, dramatic gorges where waterfalls crash between the wooded slopes, picturesque old towns with harbours that are an Instagrammer’s dream: in three days, I saw enough to make me wonder why I had never fitted in a Corsica short break before now.

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France was one of the first foreign countries I visited – like many in Britain – and I’ve been visiting different areas over the decades since. But it’s only last year that I finally managed a long weekend in Corsica, invited on a press trip day part of my day job, visiting Bastia and Calvi in the north and realising just what I’d been missing out on.

So why, I asked our guide and local insider Seb Guerra, don’t you get more people from the UK coming on a Corsica short break? It is mostly the French who come, he agreed – on the island, you very quickly discover people are Corsican first, French a very definite second, and for centuries Corsica was Italian, a combination which ensures the island really isn’t quite like anywhere else in France.

It hasn’t always been the easiest part to reach, but with Air Corsica adding direct flights last summer and British Airways starting a new route to Bastia from May, a long weekend in Corsica is suddenly much easier. So if you’re tempted by the idea of holidays in Corsica, here’s what to put on your list.

Corsica short break – Bastia

Capital of Corsica until the end of the 18th century, Bastia is Corsica’s second largest city – and much of its charm comes from wandering around the old streets, spotting the imposing burnt golden towers of the citadel high above, and the St Jean Baptiste cathedral and pastel houses around the harbour reflected in the deep blue water.

Walking through the back streets, black and white street art covers up some of the uninhabited buildings – styled after retro photographs, they fit perfectly with the timeless atmosphere.

A stone’s throw away, sleek yachts line up in the marina where stylish bars are dotted between the old houses decorated in an array of ice cream colours, little balconies jutting out in front of shuttered windows.

In the city’s largest square stands a statue of Corsica’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte, dressed as a Roman god – although the former Emperor is more tolerated than revered at this end of the island.

Instead, the focus is on catching up with friends in one of the many cafes which line the square, buzzing even on a weekday morning, while the nearby Maison L.N Mattei shop sells endless variations of the bitter herby Cap Corse aperitif.

Between the Old Port – the new port, where ferries from mainland France dock, is tucked around a corner – and the citadel, you can wander the pedestrian walkways along the seafront or climb through the  shady gardens of le Jardin Romieu, until you reach the historic fortifications, now containing a museum.

One of a series of fortresses built by the Republic of Genoa when it ruled the island, battling would-be conquerors from Pisa, Aragon and France, its protective walls are now lined with restaurants (such as A Casarella) and bars for another great sunset vantage-point.

As dusk falls, the lights of the boats and port below start to glint and glimmer into life as you try some of the local specialities, such as local cheese brocciu (similar to ricotta), pastries made from chestnut flour and fresh fish galore. Chez Vincent also has fantastic (huge) pizzas if you’re visiting Corsica with kids.

Where to stay in Corsica: Bastia

We checked into Hotel des Gouverneurs, once the Governor’s Palace, and set right on the hilltop in Bastia’s historic citadel. Kids are welcome too, with babysitting on offer and a little indoor pool, although it’s got a distinctly grown-up vibe.

Starting your evening on the balcony, looking down onto the old port and honey-coloured buildings of Bastia below, is hard to beat – especially with a Cap Corse rouge to sip. Like a cross between Sangria and martini, it’s the traditional local aperitif (although there’s plenty of local wine if you prefer).

If you’d rather stay outside the city and visit Bastia for the day, pretty St Florent, on the opposite side of the Cap Corse peninsula, is just over half an hour away by car with some lovely beaches and boat trips around the coast.

Corsica holidays tip: You won’t find mega resorts or all-inclusives on the island – the focus is on family owned and boutique properties (average size is around 25-30 rooms) though there are larger campsites, while you can rent villas in Corsica and apartments too.

Where to visit around Bastia

Bastia is a great base to explore north-eastern Corsica. From here, the wilder Cap Corse peninsula stretches off to the north, where you’ll find little fishing villages dotted along the coast.

Or another of Corsica’s former capitals, Corte, is also a day trip away – perfect to discover both Corsica’s history and some more outdoor activities.

Much of the island is tricky to explore without a car, but you can take the train to Corte from Bastia, to try everything from walking and trekking along the rivers and to waterfalls, or even canyoning in the mountainous interior.

Corsica short break – Calvi

Instead of heading inland, we went west to see some of the spectacular gorges and lush valleys through the windows of the train to Calvi – at some times of year there’s a direct link, otherwise you have a short change at Ponte Lecchia before travelling past Ile Rousse and the astonishing turquoise sea off the coast here.

One of the most scenic train journeys I’ve been on, it can cost as little as £15 and takes about three hours.

At first glance, Calvi might seem a little like Bastia in miniature – its own citadel looms high above another old port, twisting cobbled streets open into squares packed with restaurant tables where groups of friends burst into song at the end of the meal to show their appreciation. Browsing through souvenir shops and tiny delis, I wished I hadn’t travelled hand luggage only.

But look beyond the surface (literally) and there’s more to Calvi than meets the eye: wrecks in the water off the harbour front, it’s popular with divers who come to explore the island’s five marine parks – as Corsica has no heavy industry, it has some of the clearest water in the Mediterranean.

Just outside the little city, the train stops at a station so small it barely has a platform; 10 paces have you sitting at one of the beachside restaurants and another dozen onto the sand before a swim in the sheltered little bay.

Still warm enough for a dip in September, it’s a perfect time to explore – in peak season Calvi’s population explodes from 5,000 inhabitants in winter to over 100,000.

And behind the walls of the citadel, there’s some astonishing street art. Part of the Outings project by Julien de Casabianca to bring art to the streets, the walls here were decorated with faces straight from the Old Masters – medieval cherubs and angels who were being immortalised on canvas when the towers of the citadel were first being built.

Skipping the audio guide (pick them up at Calvi’s tourist office and look out for the numbers on the walls – there’s an adult version in England, but the children’s version is French only if you’re visiting Corsica with kids), we climbed the old streets past more little cafes and viewpoints to Calvi’s own cathedral of St John the Baptist.

There’s one more famous face to see along the way. Not far from the entrance to the Citadel, with the motto ‘Semper fidelis’ on the wall – a reference to Calvi’s loyalty to the Genoese who battled 18th century calls for Corsican independence before selling the island to the king of France – there’s a memorial to Christopher Columbus.

According to locals, the explorer was born right here in Calvi – then part of Genoa. Experts have argued for years exactly where Columbus was born, but for the inhabitants of Calvi, there’s no doubt: the house nearby where he once lived is marked by a plaque too.

True or not, after even a brief taste of Corsica, I would have been happy to ignore my own explorer tendencies for a while and stay here for a lot longer.

Where to stay in Corsica: Calvi

Not far from Calvi’s beach – and the station where we hopped off the train – lies Hotel Corsica.

Close enough to Calvi to explore, a free minibus takes you between the town and this gorgeous peaceful spot, with an outdoor pool and children’s pool in the shady gardens.

How to get to Corsica

There are a whole string of direct flights from the UK to airports including Ajaccio, Calvi, Figari and Bastia, including low-cost flights, national carriers and charter flights.

Alternatively you can take a ferry from mainland France, with routes from Marseille to Bastia (do save some time to explore Marseille as well if you can), as well as Nice to Ile Rousse, Bastia and Porto Vecchio, among other options.

PIN FOR LATER: A LONG WEEKEND IN CORSICA

Disclosure: I travelled to Corsica courtesy of Corsican Places as part of a trip for my day job, and was under no obligation to write anything on the blog. But it’s such a gorgeous island, I wanted to share it. All opinions and new liking for a Cap Corse rouge aperitif are my own. Contains affiliate links – any purchases you make are unaffected but I may get a small commission.

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