Suomenlinna with kids – visiting Helsinki island fortress

Prison. Military fortress. And perhaps one of the most fun things to do in Helsinki… It’s an unusual write-up, but then the Finnish capital is an unusual city. Which is why Suomenlinna sea fortress was top of our list of attractions in Helsinki to explore, with so much to discover on Suomenlinna with kids.

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In May, the flowers are blooming, clouds of vibrant yellow against the deep blue of the sea where the cliffs drop to the waves – and taking the Suomenlinna ferry from Helsinki’s market square is half the fun, passing some of the many islands dotted around the city on the 15-minute boat ride.

It feels a long way from its past as one of the key defences for the city of Helsinki. And with several museums plus a submarine to explore, and plenty of space to wander, you shouldn’t miss visiting Suomenlinna with kids.

Stepping off the ferry at the quay, it’s easy to wonder where to start: the island’s unusual sights include Finland’s oldest dry dock, as well as a church, historic buildings, museums and fortifications, while the old barracks is now a brewery and art gallery.

Helpfully the maps you can pick up show the island’s ‘blue route’, a suggested walking route which takes you past the major things to do on Suomenlinna – around 30 minutes from end to end, although allow at least a couple of hours to explore.

Our first stop… Moomins! Suomenlinna Toy Museum is on the first section of the island, tucked away down by the service ferry dock. And while it’s small, it’s surprisingly entertaining. Edit: sadly now closed

Along with the famous white Moomins, there were cabinets full of toys dating back decades, including some my husband and I recognised from our own childhoods plus a selection from the former Soviet Union.

Minnie scampered through compiling a mental wishlist, darting back to the entrance to hug the huge bear which stands there, while we played ‘do you remember’, shared our own reminiscences and compared some to her own collection.

Even a leisurely browse doesn’t take long, with the displays across just a couple of rooms – which left time for a cinnamon bun from the small cafe in the sunshine, and then onwards to some of the other museums.

Whatever else you see, you shouldn’t miss Suomenlinna museum itself, telling the story of the island through its history.

The fortress was begun by the Swedish in 1748, then in control of the country and determined to protect themselves against further battles with Russia, as well as providing a base to create new ships for the Navy.

Then called Sveaborg, or Viapori in Finnish, it finally saw action in 1808, when its commander surrended unexpectedly (and somewhat inexplicably) after a minor skirmish and Suomenlinna sea fortress became the property of the Russians.

Barracks were built, the island was fortified further and its Orthodox church added… until attacks and a change in priorities left it falling into disrepair.

Only in 1918, after Finland had declared independence, was the island returned by the Russians during the Finnish civil war, becoming Suomenlinna prison and housing up to 8,000 prisoners of war – also acquiring its current name, Suomenlinna, or Castle of Finland along the way. 

Now, around 800 people still live on the island and there’s even a primary school there, with a small playground.

A more traditional style museum, there’s still plenty to look at including models (and a short film to watch) but it’s unlikely to capture the interest of younger kids for long – unlike our next stop at the Vesikko Submarine.

There’s something fascinating about getting the chance to wander around this Second World War craft, trying to work out just how 20 people could have fitted in, marvelling at the clever design to squeeze the necessities into such a small space, and – of course – playing with the periscope.

As proof that they know just what questions kids will ask, there’s even a sign pointing out where the toilet would have been (it’s been removed to make way for exit steps for the marvelling visitors).

And despite being the only one of us who would have fitted comfortably in one of the bunks, Minnie was aghast at the thought of sleeping in such a confined space.

Not least because her armed of stuffed animals would have taken up the entire bed, I suspect!

The only remaining submarine of its time, after Finland was forced to scrap the others thanks to a post-war treaty, it has been a museum for 45 years.

Skipping the chance to see more Finnish military artefacts or explore the official residence of the fortress’s commandants, we headed back through the Great Courtyard where the grave of the fortress’ designer, Augustin Ehrensvärd, lies, to the Customs Museum instead (open in summer).

Part of the former prison area, with one cell marked out on the floor, there’s plenty about smuggling to bring the rather dry customs history to life.

And onwards past the small beach near Piper’s Park to the far end and the King’s Gate, where you can watch ships sailing through the Gulf of Finland, cruising over to Tallinn, our own previous destination, or through to the great cities of the Baltic.

But the highlight of visiting Suomenlinna island isn’t simply its museums and historic sights, it’s wandering along the paths and cobbled streets, stepping underground into the arches of fortifications and through spooky tunnels, spotting old cannon to climb on, and drinking in those sea views from the cliff paths as the seabirds wheel overhead.

It’s wondering what life would be like on a small island, cut off from the mainland apart from the ferry (and a secret tunnel that’s only for emergencies). It’s about pondering whether trolls might live under the bridge connecting the two parts of Suomenlinna island – or Moomins, perhaps?

Because while the island might have a forbidding past, when the sun shines, there’s something magical about this unique spot.

Visiting Suomenlinna with kids: Need to know

If you have a Helsinki card, most of the island’s museums are included as is a guided tour and the ferry ride over – check out my review of the Helsinki card.

We didn’t try the guided tour, choosing to explore independently with our five-year-old. Two of the museums, including the submarine, are also closed outside the summer months.

Suomenlinna island itself is open to visitors to wander around, so if you don’t have a Helsinki card there are several options for a ferry to Suomenlinna and you can decide whether to pay the entry fees for the individual museums on arrival or buy a combined ticket for the museums.

The tour costs 14 Euros for adults and 5 Euros for kids.

There are 11 places to eat dotted around the island, ranging from small cafes to finer dining including traditional Finnish dishes – and a pizzeria at the far end of the island.

Opening times vary throughout the year and from restaurant to restaurant, so it’s worth checking in advance. Several were closed when we visited, and the pizzeria is only open at lunchtimes in summer, for example.

There is a picnic area too, also open during the summer months, as well as toilets at various places around the island.

Cycling is restricted to certain routes on the island, and you have to bring your own bikes (for a fee) as there is no bike hire on Suomenlinna. Some of the cobbled paths are tricky if you have a buggy to.

The Taksi Viapori pedicab service no longer seems to be running.

Find more ideas of some of the top things to do in Helsinki, as well as my reasons to visit the city.

PIN FOR LATER: HELSINKI’S SUOMENLINNA WITH KIDS

Images copyright MummyTravels

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links – any purchases you make are unaffected but I may receive a small commission. All opinions on visiting Suomenlinna with kids are my own

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