Lanzarote: Vines and volcanoes
A black lava landscape, blasted by the force of six years of volcanic eruptions, might not sound like the most promising place to grow vines – especially if you’re used to the more typical straight leafy rows and gentle countryside from France to Australia.
But Lanzarote has a centuries-old wine-growing history – Shakespeare even wrote about the local ‘Malmsey’ wine, now better known as Malvasia (never say I don’t tell you anything), as well as enjoying a free annual allowance of 268 gallons thanks to his position as poet laureate.
And while it was never quite as popular in the UK after that, Regency fops would still have indulged in the odd glass of Canary as well.
But while the 18th century eruptions wiped out much of the island’s fertile land, growers discovered that the volcanic soil was rich enough for vines to thrive again… with a few unique modifications.
Each of these Lanzarote vines is sheltered in a horseshoe shaped depression or ‘zoco’ protecting it from the wind and helping trap moisture.
And driving through the valley of La Geria, one of the island’s wine-producing areas, you see the dramatic sight of the black curves of the pits and walls with the bright green of the vines contrasting.
Then, of course, you pat yourself on the back for not getting yourself added to the hire car insurance, and stop at one of the bodegas along the way.
Some run tours, though you may need to book ahead, but most have tastings. El Grifo is the oldest (one of the oldest in Spain, in fact) in San Bartolome, while Bodega Stratvs has its own restaurant and cheese farm.
With Minnie in a good mood after another seaside lunch and nap, we started at Bodega La Geria, just off the LZ30, with big plans to cross over the road to Bodega Rubicon afterwards and make the most of our final day.
But as we started our tasting (from 50c per glass), the drizzly rain turned into a torrential downpour. Unfortunate as we were all dressed for the sunnier coast…
And even after wandering round the ‘museum’ – a couple of rooms furnished in traditional manner around a courtyard and really not worth more than five minutes even in the rain – and trying (and purchasing) the dry white Malvasia, the red (hmmm) and the sweet Moscatel (gorgeously sticky), the weather hadn’t improved.
Fortunately, seeing Minnie in her summer hat snuggled up under every muslin I had, one of the vineyard staff took pity on us and produced a huge umbrella to make sure that she, at least, stayed dry on the short walk back to the car. Which meant that I, as baby carrier, also got slightly less soaked than I would have.
Not the most obvious advantage of travelling with a baby, but one I was ready seize…
Travel lesson learned: (Some) people love babies. Especially ones with big blue eyes and winning smiles. Take advantage of it!
For tips on more things to do in Lanzarote with kids, check out this post, as well as more information in my guide to the Canary Islands for families
Image courtesy of Depositphotos
