24 hours in Muscat: Oman with kids
As we sped along the coast by Muscat, scuffing above the sparkling blue waves, it was hard to believe that four hours earlier we had been sitting on a plane.
Landing in Oman and whizzing through the visa and immigration queue, we had arrived at our hotel well before check-in. So, on the helpful suggestion of our representative from Stubborn Mule (who we booked our trip through), we headed down to the marina for an impromptu dolphin spotting tour.
If there’s a better way to blow away jetlagged cobwebs, I’m not sure I’ve found it. With 24 hours in Muscat (well, maybe 25), we didn’t have long to explore the Omani capital before heading out to the desert and mountains on our one-week break in Oman.
But while there is plenty more I’d have liked to do, we managed to fit in the essential highlights – or my essential highlights at least. So if you’ve only got a day in Muscat, here’s what you can do from the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque to traditional Muscat and more. Jetlag included.
24 hours in Muscat: Dolphin spotting boat trip
Sitting on board the boat at Marina Bandar Al Rowdha, it felt as if someone had switched the scenery into glorious technicolour.
After leaving grey London in October, via a night flight and airport terminal, there was suddenly water glinting a deep blue, morning sunshine reflecting off the rocks and the white of the buildings.
Cresting our own waves of tiredness and jetlag, it was a relief to settle back and stare out to the sea and the mountains behind the city.
Even if we didn’t spot dolphins, I decided this was a great way to start our holiday – and I couldn’t help thinking the speed and noise of the boat would keep any marine life at bay as we zipped along through the water.
As it turns out, our captain – from Sidab Sea Tours – knew better; word soon came in that dolphins had been spotted. And not one pod, but two.
The boats converged and we saw dolphin after dolphin leaping out of the waves before diving back down below. Dozens visible then suddenly vanishing before reappearing sleekly with another graceful surge.
I couldn’t help feeling uncomfortable at some of the other companies whose boats were trailing one pod so closely that the dolphins seemed pursued rather than spotted.
Ours, happily, kept more of a distance – close enough to have plenty of opportunities to see but never feeling as if we were chasing or distressing them.
Around 10 species live off the coast, although as with any wildlife sightings it’s never guaranteed what you’ll get – our 10am trip saw two pods, the 8am tour on the same day returned without spotting so much as a fin.
There are also dhow and sunset cruises available from the same company, with transfers between the marina and hotels included; Minnie gave in to sleep and dozed on the minibus ride back to the hotel, arriving to find our room ready, I followed her lead with a much needed nap!
24 hours in Muscat: Visit Muttrah souk and corniche
Muscat is a sprawling city, divided into different areas rather than having a single main centre so you’ll find yourself driving across the capital at some point (although try to avoid rush hour, where the roads grid lock in some areas).
But Muscat is also far from the high-rise ultra-glitzy reputation of its neighbours – sandwiched between the sea and the Hajar Mountains, buildings are mostly white or a sandy shade and nothing can be built too high, by the Sultan’s decree, which makes it feel much less overwhelming.
And nowhere is quite as traditional as Muttrah (or Mutrah), home to the city’s oldest souk and a waterfront corniche.
Wandering past the stalls just before sunset, we could have snapped up frankincense and sandalwood, antique looking brass lamps, scarves and souvenirs galore or joined the women shopping for homewares, toys, children’s clothes and more – not dissimilar to its 15th century reputation of being “a port, the like of which cannot be found in the whole world”.
Without any of the hassle you might find in similar souks elsewhere in the world, it’s easy to wander and soak up the atmosphere even if you’ve spent all your spare rials on taxi rides.
And we weren’t the only ones ambling along by the sea as sun sank in the west behind the port.
Men in white dishdashas strolled, others sat cross-legged on the wall to chat and some made the most of the lower temperatures by jogging past as we gazed out across the water, spotted the fort above and the fish sculpture.
We settled down to soak it up over fresh fruit juice and some hummus at one of the string of cafes which line the area.
Arrive a bit earlier and you could stop in at the Bait Al Baranda museum too (recommended by Our Globetrotters) – a little further east are the Bait Al Zubair culture and history museum and National Museum.
24 hours in Muscat: See the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
This was top of my list of things to see in Muscat, but with visitor hours closing at 11am on weekdays (there’s no admission on Fridays unless you’re coming to pray) and only a vague idea of how long it might take to get through the airport on our first morning, we left our visit to our second morning, on the way out of the city to Nizwa.
Do set aside enough time not to rush though. One of the most beautiful buildings I’ve seen, its courtyards gleam in the sun, elegant white minarets towering above against the blue sky and light shining through archways and into shady corridors.
And that’s before you explore the gardens, with their cool fountains and flowers, or even more spectacularly, before you get inside.
Home to what was once the world’s largest carpet, measuring 4,343 square metres, weighing 21 tonnes and taking 600 women four years to weave by hand including 1,700 million knots, the men’s prayer hall can fit 6,500 inside.
But it’s not just the space which is impressive. The chandelier above is still arguably the largest in the world, measuring 14 metres and weighing 8.5 tons, with 24 carat gold plate and sparkling Swarovski crystals – apparently when it is taken down to be cleaned, 12 people can stand inside it.
Even the spines of books lining the shelves are embossed with gold, while intricate calligraphy, vibrant mosaics and geometric decoration adorn every surface, just as on the smooth sandstone outside.
Built to mark the 30th year of the Sultan’s reign, 20,000 worshippers can fit inside the mosque including 750 in the smaller women’s prayer hall – less space is needed, my guide informs me, as it’s better for women to pray at home to avoid anyone distracting anyone else.
Certainly although it’s a peaceful room, it’s not on nearly as magnificent a scale.
Incidentally, although everything I read, including signs in the mosque itself, stated that under 10s aren’t allowed inside the main prayer hall, my five-year-old was waved through without hesitation – in fact security were full of beaming smiles for her (admittedly rather cute) hat.
I know we’re not alone in having this experience, but it’s worth being aware in case the rules are being enforced when you visit.
One rule which you will need to follow is to cover up – for women that means hair, arms to your wrists and legs to your ankles.
There are abayas to hire if you prefer, but apart from asking me to adjust my headscarf a little, a shirt and loose trousers (leggings won’t be accepted) was absolutely fine. You’ll also need to take your shoes off before going inside, so easily kicked-off sandals are useful.
PIN FOR LATER: 24 HOURS IN MUSCAT
Disclosure: Our dolphin spotting trip was arranged free of charge as part of our trip with Stubborn Mule. I paid for the rest of our Oman holiday, including our 24 hours in Muscat, and all opinions remain my own, including the need for a midday nap on day 1.
Images copyright MummyTravels
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This sounds like a fascinating place to explore. How wonderful that you saw so many dolphins!
Amazing – I didn’t expect to have such good luck
You are really selling me on Oman! It’s sounds and looks more and more beautiful with each post! And I like that the souks here aren’t as busy as I’ve heard they are in Marrakesh. Pinned & Stumbled! #CityTripping
A really different atmosphere to what I remember of Marrakech, much more laid back and the country is just so beautiful
Muscat looks fabulous and high on my list to visit. The mosque looks spectatacular and your photos do it proud. Wilbur #citytripping
Thank you! I took so many there – every corner, every detail was so eye catching
Wow, this looks really lovely!! I really like the photos of the mosque, reminds me of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.
#CityTripping
That is a beautiful mosque but this really is in a different league, just spectacular
Brilliant way to overcome jetlag! Wish we could have done the same on our latest flight back to Bangalore – bit far from the coast really 😉 Have loved reading your Oman posts. I need to get there soon! #citytripping
I think I want that as my jetlag solution after every trip! And you do…
Oman is sticking out more and more on my bucket list 🙂
Great!
A hassle free souk sounds like a refreshing change #citytripping
Absolutely!
That mosque is something else, and I definitely want to see the chandelier, even if it is only arguably the largest. Where is the other largest I do wonder? Two pods of dolphins though – great!
I found myself researching this to check – the largest according to the Guinness Book of Records is in Las Vegas, but as I understand it, it’s more of a chandelier shaped crystal sculpture rather than actually a highly detailed and decorative lamp. I found a few chandelier experts who’ve looked into this on the internet (isn’t technology wonderful) and as an actual working chandelier, Oman seems to take first place. Abu Dhabi is next I believe in its mosque, everyone seemed to agree about that!
Wow, to buy goodies like Frankincense and Myrrh and antique lanterns is a reason enough to travel to Oman! 😉 #CityTripping
They did look exactly as if a genie might come out if you rubbed one.
I’ve heard lots of good things about Oman, and so I was interested to take a look through your lens. It looks just beautiful. I’m sure my kids would absolutely love the dolphin spotting too! #citytripping
We had such a great trip – perfect with families, there are so many adventures to be had and really child-friendly. Plus dolphins are always a bonus!
Oh, now I have visions of those hundreds of women, weaving the carpet. What a feat. Muscat sounds and looks like a place on another planet. All that opulence! #citytripping
I can hardly even imagine how you start a project like that – what an achievement to create it. And the mosque really is magnificent.
Muscat sounds like a fascinating city. I especially like the sound of the mosque. It looks like a beautiful place and would definitely be the first place I go if I ever visit. #citytripping.
I definitely think if you only have time to do one thing in Muscat, that should be it.
What an interesting choice of destination for a family holiday -look forward to hearing more about Oman. After some bad experiences in Egypt I’ve been put off this region, but when I heard there wasn’t any hassle in the souk my interest is piqued! #citytripping
It’s a long while since I was in Egypt, and not with my daughter, but Oman was quite different to what I remember – very much more laid back, very friendly, and so much to see. Would go back again in a heartbeat
I must admit, I would have thought of visit Oman but your photos look amazing. It looks such an interesting city and I love the architecture. Shopping in †he souks is always fun too
Thanks! The souks are great to stroll around, even when you’re not buying too.
You really packed it in! And managed to do/see some really diverse things. I can’t believe you captured the dolphins so well, I’ve been whale watching and found it really difficult to get an unblurry shot. I can’t wait to hear about your week in the desert and the mountains! #citytripping
It amazed me quite how much variety there was in our trip – and thanks! The post on the desert is live at https://www.mummytravels.com/stay-in-wahiba-sands-omans-desert/, just need to get writing about the mountains…
Mosque looks so intricate and stunning. Great dolphin photos, especially as they move so fast. And that boardwalk by the sea is serene.
#citytripping
It was a lovely combination – and I admit there are quite a few dolphin photos which are more sea than dolphin!
Dolphins, a souk and a stunning mosque all within 24 hours of landing is pretty impressive. Your tales from Oman are really making me want to visit! #CityTripping
Wonderful! Just the effect I hope to have – it is incredible even for me to look back and think of everything we fitted in.
Sounds like one of the better Middle Eastern capitals. And genuinely plenty to see and do for kids. #citytripping
I don’t have too many to compare it to – even when I visited Jordan, we didn’t spend long in Amman, but I would definitely prefer to see somewhere like Muscat over Dubai for example.
You do a great job selling Muscat! Love those dolphins
#citytripping
Thanks! They were incredible, couldn’t believe how close we got.
You totally sell Muscat (and Oman) – you’ve got everything from Dolphins to Carpets! #citytripping
It was amazing – and that was just day 1 😀
Can I say that I always love your funny statements in your Disclosure section! Anyways, so much of this trip sounds amazing. My girls are obsessed with dolphins, so they would love that. As for me, I can’t get over the chandelier. 12 people? Wow. #citytripping
Thank you! 🙂 And it’s funny, the mosque prayer hall is so big that the chandelier seems a normal size – big, of course, but it’s only when I read the numbers that I realised just how huge it is!
This looks good! Oman is a county I have not given a lot of consideration but it looks like a great place to go on an adventure. I like the dolphin spotting cruise but, wow, that mosque! I cannot get enough of that architecture and detailed work. Would like to be close to a building like that. #citytripping
There is so much to discover there – and the mosque is just astonishing, I would recommend that to anyone, such a beautiful building
We never left our hotel in muscat it was so fab. Need to go back and actually see thr country
The Chedi does look pretty amazing – maybe I will treat myself to a stay there next time! But yes, definitely worth a return and venturing out 🙂
Your photos are beyond stunning, and I love the architecture. We loved the architecture at the Alhambra, and of course it came from this part of the world. I’ve never been to this part of the world, but I have been to Asia, and I find it so fascinating to visit places that are so culturally different from ours. Especially with our kids… they should know we aren’t in a bubble! #citytripping
Thank you so much – means a lot coming from you in particular. It is so fascinating to see such different cultures isn’t it, and I agree, it’s so important for kids to experience that as well.