Discovering Welsh legends in south west Wales
Watching the mist swirling in the mountains, listening to the sea crashing by the coast and the silence of the remote valleys, Wales seems a natural home for myths and magic, for legendary heroes and fairy folk, for tall tales and spellbinding epics.
press trip*
So it’s no surprise how important the bards were, as tellers and creators of stories, keeping history and traditions alive. As the country celebrates the ‘year of legends’ this year, we headed along the south coast to far western Wales to discover a few Welsh legends for ourselves.
Are you sitting comfortably? Then I shall begin. Once upon a time – or rather, Amser maith yn ôl*…
Afan, Neath Port Talbot
Once… there was a young girl called Elen, who lived on a farm at the mouth of the River Afan. There she met the King of the Hill, disguised as a goblin, who showed her his kingdom’s treasure.
The king offered her whatever treasures she wanted from his land, as long as she never told anyone of their meeting. But while Elen took the gold, she didn’t keep her promise and the treasure vanished – and Elen never saw the King of the Hill again.
Now… the trees towering above the Afan Valley once went to the nearby mines; today they overshadow the cycle routes of Afan Forest Park, including ones to test your mountain bike skills to the full.
Fortunately ours was a lot gentler than some of the more adrenaline-fuelled trails, and after coaxing Minnie into a child seat on the back of the bike, managing not to tip either of us onto the ground (just about), we pedalled off with our guide to discover a bit more about the area.
After coasting past the bike skills area designed for kids, we headed down towards the riverside path listening to the water and birdsong, passing horses and a couple of contented dogs. Any supernatural royalty was keeping its distance, so we contented ourselves with lunch at Afan Lodge.
Minnie checked out the toys in one corner, I devoured my chicken burger and discovered another tale of a rather more flesh and blood legend, Richard Burton. Once the Miners’ Institute, it was the first place he performed.
The Gower peninsula, Swansea Bay
Once… King Arthur was travelling through Carmarthenshire, when he found a stone in his shoe. Taking it out, he threw it out across the water to Cefn Bryn where it landed, magically growing in size along the way.
The surrounding stones, in admiration that it had been touched by the hand of Arthur, raised it high. To this day, the ghost of Arthur can be seen riding a white horse along the remains of a stone pathway.
Now… the first written references to King Arthur were in Welsh (before French and English poets added to the tales), and you’ll find links to the once and future king across the country, not least three different lakes in Snowdonia which are supposed to contain Excalibur, the site of Camelot at Caerleon and two possible locations for his burial – including the hill where he sits and waits to save the country from danger once again.
There’s a rather more prosaic explanation for Maen Ceti, or Arthur’s Stone, in the heart of the Gower Peninsula. But it’s equally fascinating: the site of a Neolithic burial tomb dating back to 2500BC, it was once considered as important as Stonehenge – and with the bonus legend that the stone is thirsty, occasionally moving to a nearby stream for a drink.
Offer it a special barley, honey and milk cake, circle it on your hands and knees three times and you can also discover whether the man you love will be faithful to you.
We didn’t try that (it was raining and I hadn’t packed any barley) but it’s a beautiful part of the countryside to explore.
Stopping at the King Arthur Hotel nearby for lunch, we made up our own tales inspired by the legends, based on our morning’s exploration of Rhossili Beach – and happily tucked in to the delicious food on the menu.
If you fancy exploring more of Wales’s beautiful countryside as you learn about its legends, head to the Brecon Beacons and while you’re walking Pen Y Fan, consider the fact that every May Day, an enchanted island would emerge in the shadow of the mountains full of fairies – read the full tale about why we can no longer see it here
Carmarthen
Once… as a young boy, Merlin loved to sit under one particular oak tree, not far from the Priory where his mother was a nun. Until one day, a friend told him that his tree was destined to be chopped down.
Infuriated, he put a spell on the oak and announced, ‘When Merlin’s tree shall tumble down, then shall fall Carmarthen Town’.
Now… Home to the greatest wizard of history, tales of Merlin are woven throughout Carmarthenshire – he also reputedly sleeps under a hill just outside Carmarthen awaiting the hour of need, or possibly imprisoned by his sorceress lover.
In the town itself, you can still see the remains of the amphitheatre where his wisdom was first spotted, resulting in him being brought before Vortigern, King of the Britons, and unleashing two warring dragons from under his fort.
As you might expect from the Welsh flag, the red one won…
And on Priory Street, Merlin’s oak endured for centuries (or was possibly planted in the 17th century) despite apparently being poisoned in the 19th century.
Eventually, by the 70s it was dying and dangerous and the decision was taken to chop it down. When terrible floods struck nine years later, the legend was remembered.
Today, two pieces of the original tree remain: one in the County Museum at Abergwili, the other in the Civic Hall (which you can pop in and see, along with the remains of the castle nearby, including an old dungeon and interactive display on Carmarthen’s history).
Head to Priory Street and there’s a new wooden carving of Merlin in the middle of the shops.
For another very real Welsh legendary hero, head to the coast nearby to Llansteffan, where the castle was briefly taken by Owain Glyndwr during his rebellion against the English kings.
There’s a virtual reality experience planned in the ruins to celebrate the year of legends too. And don’t miss what turned out to be one of our most legendary meals of the trip, at nearby Mansion House which managed impressive gourmet style and to be child-friendly at the same time.
St David’s, Pembrokeshire
Once… as a fierce thunderstorm raged on the coast, St Non, niece of King Arthur gave birth on the cliffs to a boy named David. An unearthly light illuminated the scene, the storm turned to calm, and a spring of clear water burst forth.
Going on to become Bishop and later St David, or Dewi Sant, he is said to have lived to the age of 147, vanquishing a monster and performing miracles along the way.
Now… One of my favourite parts of Wales, Pembrokeshire has its own share of legends – our cottage was not far from Ffynone Waterfall, reputed to be the entrance to Annwn, the Celtic Underworld.
Bedd Arthur, meanwhile, is another reputed resting place of King Arthur, while there’s a memorial to another more recent legend, Barti Ddu or Black Bart in Little Newcastle near Fishguard.
The Welsh King of the Pirates is mentioned in Treasure Island and has his own exhibit at Tenby’s museum.
It was the first time I had visited the UK’s smallest city, St Davids, where the saint’s shrine still lies within the cathedral, not far from his reputed birthplace.
Restored using traditional techniques and rededicated in 2012. the golden icons are beautiful and it’s still a site of pilgrimage. In the Treasury are some of the cathedral’s surviving treasures, including books and bishop’s regalia, the oldest dating back to the 13th century.
Behind the cathedral lies the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace, which must have vied with its neighbour in sheer Gothic impressiveness when it was still intact.
Check out the exhibitions at Oriel Y Parc gallery at the other end of the tiny city (population less then 2,000).
To discover more Welsh legends, you can follow the ‘Legends’ cycle trail across South West Wales, through Neath Port Talbot, Carmarthenshire, Swansea Bay and Pembrokeshire including downloadable guides, as well as a separate ‘Tombstones’ trail.
PIN FOR LATER: DISCOVERING WELSH LEGENDS
Disclosure: My trip to Wales was courtesy of the tourist boards for Carmarthenshire, Swansea Bay, Pembrokeshire, and Neath and Port Talbot. All opinions, edited Welsh legends and somewhat rainy photos remain my own.
*With thanks to Cathryn from Cardiff Mummy Says for help with the translation
Images: Arthur’s Stone courtesy of Depositphotos; all others copyright MummyTravels
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What a lovely post! Wales hasn’t been somewhere we’ve explored a great deal of, this makes me want to get out there and find out more about the legends for myself. I love places that are full of intrigue – it looks beautiful too.
It is a really beautiful country, there were so many legends which we could have followed as well – King Arthur would fill a week for starters. And practically on your doorstep.
Fantastic post and you have really put Wales on the list for us. Raihans been learning about it in school and really wants to visit, sounds like so much fun. One of our missions it to get the children to learn about the stories / legends of the places we visit and this sounds perfect.
Thanks! I had so many wonderful holidays there as a child (and since!), so much still to discover.
We’ve been to Gower and we were really blown away by the beauty of the place – although there is still so much to see in Wales! But I love the idea of discovering all the legends behind each place. I think Monkey would really enjoy that especially Merlin stories in Carmarthen.
It is such a beautiful country – and was really fun telling the stories as we explored. I want to brush up on my reading again now…
What a gorgeous post – I learnt so much from reading it and am very tempted by a trip! Pembrokeshire has long appealed, so we really need to get there now.
Thank you! There is so much I love about Wales, was great to explore some new areas, although Pembrokeshire is always one of my favourites.
I’ve not visited much of wales but your post and pics makes me want to #citytripping
Thank you! That’s lovely to hear – always what I hope.
What fun tales! I particularly enjoyed the first tale and the one about Merlin! I can imagine it makes traveling with children much more fun! #CityTripping
Thanks! We came across a few fun stories – and absolutely, my daughter loves to ask me to tell her stories, ideally ones I’ve made up but it’s nice to have an alternative when my creative side needs a rest…
So interesting to read about some of the legends. Wales isn’t a country I’ve explored hugely but it certainly is beautiful and full of history. #citytripping
Thank you – it is such a lovely place, so much history to explore as well, and castles galore which always goes down well.
We are off to Wales in June and I cannot wait. The kids are fascinated by legends (and ghosts) at the moment so will have to pay a visit to some of these sites
Have a great time – I hope you have fun seeking out a few of the legends too.
Great post. Wales never fails to delight and I think is rather understated. In my opinion Pembrokeshire beats Cornwall – just as beautiful and much less crowded. Wilbur #citytripping
I do have a definite soft spot for Cornwall but I agree, Pembrokeshire in particular is stunning – so much of Wales is so beautiful, and as you say, a fraction of the people visiting in many places. Thanks.
Lovely post Cathy, we are heading down to a similar area at Easter and are really looking forward to it. #citytripping
Thank you – have a fantastic time, looking forward to reading about your adventures too.
I love legends! #citytripping
Me too 🙂
Ah what great stories, I love hearing about local legends when I travel, really add to the experience! #citytripping
Same here, it’s a lovely way to learn a bit more about people and their culture, I think.
I’ve never thought about legends of Wales before, but I love history so this was really interesting. Great translations too! #citytripping
I really enjoyed reading the book of tales I’d bought before we visited, so many stories to pick from – my Welsh is minimal to say the least, so I had to call on a friend for ‘once upon a time’. I do love the way that so many languages have their own version of those few words to start a story.
Oh I want to go to Wales! I love the idea that there is SO much history there. When you are still able to connect stories to 2500BC – that is incredible. I also like the idea that the fabulous stories about goblins and trolls and kings are similar to those told by Vikings in Scandinavia. #CityTripping
Absolutely, I love the idea that these stories, or variations have been told for centuries sometimes – and like Scandinavia, Wales definitely has the kind of landscape where you can imagine spirits and fairies and magic. Perhaps we need to swap and compare 🙂
I love the idea of visiting somewhere with a theme like this, it seems such an original way to explore. I know you had terrible weather but your photos are lovely nonetheless. #citytripping
Thank you – it did make a really fun way to explore. And to be fair to Wales, blazing sunshine was always pretty unlikely in February.
Beautiful, Cathy. I love the way you’ve brought the past and present together. I’m know North Wales a little but all these places in the south are all new to me so it’s great to read about them.
And isn’t it typical – not having a bag of barley with you when you need it 😉
#citytripping
Thank you 🙂 It was lovely to discover the south a bit more, as I know the north better as well. (And would you believe I had forgotten the honey as well… tsk, must update that packing list 😉 )
I love the idea of a legends cycling trail! Great post #CityTripping
It’s a fun idea, isn’t it. Thanks!
Heading there myself later this year so this was very useful! I love this part of Wales. Diolch! And also for hosting #citytripping
Have a great time – and what good timing. Hope there are a few ideas to inspire.
Ah, the land of King Arthur! The castle looks so fun to explore! Your little one with her colorful coat adds so much to the brown tones of the castle. She’s adorable! Wales looks so enjoyable and historical.
Thank you! She had a lot of fun too – stories and castles (plus beaches) keeps her happy too, she is her mother’s daughter…
Love this blog! My family are from Merthyr Tydfil and I love hiking the mountains and exploring the nearby cities, castles and churches. My favourite is Cyfarthfa Castle! #citytripping
Thank you! And that’s another one for my list – I do love Wales, there’s always something more to discover and such a beautiful country.
I just love Wales. Many a happy holiday was spent in Snowdonia in my childhood, and it was one of the first places (close to St Davids) that we took my son on holiday to when he was a few months old #citytripping Kate x
Me too – a lot of my childhood holidays were spent in north Wales, between beaches and castles (and going up Snowdon a couple of times). It’s lovely to explore more of the south and west now too.
So much history and intrigue..I love how you’ve incorporated all the legends into the post. I’ve never been to Wales but pinning this should I some day be able to visit. #citytripping
Thank you! There are so many stories, I think this could have been a very long post…
Another place to see more of in the UK! I haven’t been to Wales often but we do have it on our must-visit list for the next few months! #citytripping
There’s always another for the list – hope this gives a few ideas to inspire.
I’ve never been to Wales, but it looks beautiful! What a fun post, I’m a fan of Merlin and King Arthur and loved reading about these legends. #citytripping
It is such a beautiful country – you would love it there if you’re a King Arthur fan (maybe with a bit of Cornwall added on too). Thanks!
I love all these legends! My kids love this stuff so much when we are traveling. Thanks for sharing these. Hopefully we will make it to see some ourselves soon! #CityTripping
Thanks! It makes such a difference having stories and exciting history to entertain them, I think.
Haha.. I imagine if I’m there, I would open your blog post and start reciting it for my kids as we go around. “Once upon a time, there was a young girl called Ellen….” I think my kids would be amused! #CityTripping
I love that thought 😀
Oh interesting post! & the places look so beautiful & like a perfect scenery for all the legends!
Thank you – yes, it’s the perfect backdrop to all the stories. Can very easily believe them there!
What a wonderful trip. Nice pictures too
Thanks, glad the clouds cleared a couple of times.
Lovely photos and post! What a great way to discover the local legends! Wales looks so fascinating and beautiful, I’ve only been to Cardiff and hope to go back and explore more. #CityTripping
Thanks! It was a really fun addition to the trip – learned a lot about Merlin. And there’s so much to discover in such a relatively small country.
If those tales don’t encourage you to visit, I don’t know what will! I love Wales, it’s just so beautiful. My husband’s step-father is Welsh and I could listen to him talking for ages! 😀
Thank you! Having someone tell you the tales in that wonderful accent would be even better 😀
What a great post. I love how you have combined the myths and legends with the present day. Looks like it was a great outing.
Thank you! Was fun to hear the story then see it for ourselves.
Discovering the legends behind a place is a great idea – particularly comparing with the present day #citytripping
Thanks! In some places, it feels like very little has changed over the centuries – so unspoiled.
Wales looks like such a pretty place and is somewhere I have never been. I think that has to change… and soon.
Very pretty – definitely worth a visit.
This has been the most fascinating thing I’ve read today, I’d love to go to Wales and see all these places. By the way, it seems like a whole lot of trouble to go through just to find out if you loved one is faithful, haha. #citytripping
Thank you! That’s so lovely to hear – and Wales is wonderful. I’m with you on the barley cake test as well, going to stick with my current approach 🙂
Loved reading about the legends across beautiful Welsh sites. The stone formation on the Gower peninsula reminds me of the prehistoric burial sites found in Sri Lanka. #CityTripping
That’s so interesting to hear about similarities like this in places that are so different and so far apart.
So pleased you and Minnie enjoyed your time in Wales. You certainly saw a lot in a short space of time. I absolutely love the Gower, such a beautiful area, and St David’s is gorgeous too. I love Welsh legends and folklore, it’s amazing thinking the stories were handed down verbally for hundreds of years before they were eventually written down. We just need to get you both to Cardiff for a holiday now! x
We really did pack a lot in – and still so much more of Wales that I want to see… not least Cardiff! It is amazing to think how old some of the stories are, and how they’ve endured, I love old legends and folk tales.