Review: Hemingways Ol Seki with kids – Naboisho Conservancy safari

If ever there was a bucket list family trip, taking a safari is it – and so I knew that a stay at Hemingways Ol Seki with kids would be a highlight of our time in Kenya.

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Set in the second largest conservancy in the Masai Mara, our Naboisho Conservancy safari gave us a chance to explore some of private reserve without battling the crowds.

And while any family safari is rarely a cheap option, there’s quite simply nothing like the chance to see Africa’s wildlife in the wild – and getting to see the animals with my daughter was even more special.

Not all camps are as child-friendly as others though, so if you’re planning your own family safari in Kenya, here’s what we thought of a stay at Hemingways Ol Seki with kids.

Hemingways Ol Seki review: vital statistics

The private Naboisho Conservancy stretches for 145 square kilometres within Kenya’s Masai Mara national reserve, with one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in the region.

The second largest conservancy in the Mara (only Mara North Conservancy is bigger), Ol Seki is one of only nine safari camps and lodges here. The numbers allowed into the reserve are always limited, so not only is there a great chance of seeing the animals, you’ll have less competition too.

It’s less than an hour’s flight from Nairobi’s Wilson airport, depending how many of the Mara camps your plane stops at on the way – we flew with Safarilink. You can also drive, which takes around four hours.

There are only nine luxury tents at Hemingways Ol Seki itself, with space for 20 guests in total, including the family ‘Simba’ tent where we stayed.

As well as a recent major redesign, there have been several new tents added to the collection but it’s still a very intimate experience: you can also choose from the smaller Nina tents and second family tent, Chui.

One of several hotels within the Hemingways collecting in Kenya, the group also includes Hemingways Nairobi and Hemingways Watamu on the coast.

Hemingways Ol Seki with kids

Even the biggest family will have space to spare if you check into the Simba tent at Hemingways Ol Seki with kids – we hardly knew which bed to choose.

With two separate bedrooms off the main living space, plus two bathrooms and a deck area outside, not to mention the communal areas – dining room, lounge and pool area – my daughter and I were spoiled for choice.

One was set up with a double bed, plus day bed to the side, while the second had twin beds and its own day bed. Ideal if you’re staying with younger kids and want to be able to put them to bed in a separate room, or if you want one to be able to stay in the same room as you.

All decorated in neutral colours with splashes or red and photos of Maasai people, there was also a fan to keep us cool (plus we got hot water bottles at night when the temperature dropped) and mesh windows allowing a breeze through during the day.

There’s even surprisingly good wi-fi, along with solar-powered electricity to keep all devices charged.

Behind each of the bedrooms were two bathrooms, one attached to each bedroom – so if you were visiting as a multigenerational family group, it would also mean that grandparents could have one half of the tent and their own space.

Each bathroom had its own shower – with an impressively powerful shower, given that you’re in the middle of the bush – plus a separate area with a flushing toilet, sink and somewhere to put toiletries, all behind a privacy curtain.

There were also separate shelves to unpack your clothes or store suitcases. Not that we’d have been tripping over them, given how spacious it all was.

Along with chairs and a desk in the bedrooms, there were also squashy sofas in the living area plus a dining table with chairs.

At the back, a stocked drinks cabinet with alcoholic and soft drinks, plus tea and coffee if you wanted it at any hour of the day.

We also had our own butler, William, to look after us if we needed anything else – although between game drives, some time chilling out and napping, plus meals at the main dining area, we barely had chance to make the most of what was on offer, let alone make any extra demands!

The wraparound terrace has several more places to sit or lounge as well, all looking out onto the plains – we could hear the wildebeest grunting to each other, as they and herds of zebra grazed throughout the day.

With our binoculars, we could make out even more of the animals, including jackals slinking through the scrubby grass, and if you have a longer stay or decide against two game drives per day, it’s a lovely place to laze and watch the wildlife.

There were plenty of options for downtime too – we made the most of our stay by taking both dawn and late afternoon drives, but whether we stopped for breakfast in the bush or returned to camp, we still had several hours before and after lunch to relax.

I usually squeezed at least one nap in (6am starts, 35C+ heat and a glass of wine at lunch made that very easy!) but we loved the small infinity pool to cool off after the first game drive of the day.

Next to the dining area, there are more loungers dotted around here in the shade too and another great view out down to one of the waterholes and the animals. As the temperatures climbed, the cool water was blissful to sink – hippo-like – into and watch.

Until we were called for lunch, at least. As with most safari camps, food is included with a set menu, but despite travelling with a picky 10-year-old, they always managed to provide something she would enjoy as well as delicious three-course meals for lunch and dinner for me.

While they’re happy to be flexible, you do need to let the camp know in advance if you have any particular dietary requirements though.

With only half a dozen other people staying at the camp during our stay, it didn’t take long to strike up conversation at mealtimes as well – you have your own separate table but it’s a relaxed atmosphere that’s perfect for families.

And while my daughter was the only child staying that week, it’s certainly not uncommon – as the family tents go to show.

If you do fancy a rather more secluded option one night, you can also choose to have dinner at ‘the Cave’, a private table on a rock overhang.

With a woodfire nearby for light, you’re tucked away on the side of the slope and it feels like you’re the only people in the world (except for the wildebeest, still calling away in the dark nearby).

And while we normally headed straight back to bed after dinner, ready for an early morning game drive the next day, there are more squashy sofas and comfy armchairs to retreat to with a drink if you fancy – there’s even a telescope at one end, for animal spotting during the day and star-gazing at night.

After dark, we were guided to and from our tent – not just to ensure we had plenty of light to find our way, but in case any animals managed to find their way in.

Unlikely but reassuring: and the wildlife we did see in camp was definitely of the cuter variety.

As well as a few red-headed agamas (which quickly earned the nickname of Spiderman lizard for its blue and red colouring), my daughter loved spotting the furry little rock hyraxes which scurried around.

Several liked the shade of the loungers by the pool, but we surprised a couple on our deck and on the roof of our tent.

The sound of speedily pattering paws on the canvas proved there were plenty more scampering above us, although half the time we could only hear them rather than see them.

But the accommodation itself is only half of the experience at Hemingways Ol Seki with kids, lovely though it is – and our game drives in the Naboisho Conservancy didn’t disappoint.

What to see on a Naboisho Conservancy safari with kids

One of the biggest draws of a holiday in Kenya with kids, a safari is absolutely unmissable if you have the opportunity.

It doesn’t matter how old you are, seeing a family of lion cubs playing together or a leopard in a tree with its kill is the kind of experience you never forget – not to mention the array of other animals you can spot on a safari in Kenya with kids.

And the flexibility of being in a private conservancy is ideal for families. If you visit a national park, you may well need to leave by 6.30pm as dusk falls too, while private game reserves like the Naboisho Conservancy allow you to be more flexible.

In our case, this meant we could hang around waiting for a leopard to emerge from the undergrowth and enjoy the astonishing sight of it climb its tree to enjoy the remains of its kill.

For our first few drives, we went out alone with the guide too, which was perfect if we wanted to hang around a little longer to marvel at lion cubs, or decide not to linger by the river, where the powerful aroma of hippos was not a hit with my daughter!

The Naboisho Conservancy has one of the highest concentrations of lions in the Maasai Mara, and while we only stayed for two nights, we managed to see lion cubs, dozing male lions and several lionesses including an affectionate pair of sisters.

We fitted in two game drives each day, which also gave us chance to cover most corners of the Naboisho Conservancy, to spot as many of its animals as possible.

While cheetah eluded us – a good reason to go back! – we still managed to see practically everything else on my daughter’s wishlist, and more.

There were several elephant sightings, from the oldest grumpy bull elephant down to one of the youngest calves, watching his mother closely as he learned to use his trunk to pull up grass.

But also plenty of smaller animals, including leopard tortoise, tiny scurrying dwarf mongoose and birds galore, from vultures and secretary bird to kingfishers.

Hyenas slinked and lurked, while warthogs darted about in alarm, their tails held high and ramrod stiff – often followed by several babies in a faintly panicked procession.

One of our favourite discoveries of the trip was the discovery that the Swahili name for them, pumbaa (yes, like in the Lion King), means ‘stupid creature’ as they often forget why they’re running away. Not a good move if there’s a lion on your tail.

And as well as too many zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, antelopes and gazelles to count, our February visit meant we also got to see lots of babies, including a newborn giraffe, only around an hour old and still learning how to use those enormously long legs.

Do make sure you bring binoculars, preferably a lightweight but powerful pair, ideally minimum 10 x 40 – it makes a huge difference when kids can get a close look at the animals.

Along the way, our fantastic guide Patrick also shared some of his knowledge of the Mara’s wildlife, as well as navigating our Toyota Landcruiser down impossible slopes, across river crossings and unerringly to spots where we could find the convservancy’s animals.

While the big sightings are always memorable, it’s the little moments which stick in the memory too – trying to pile rocks to protect a plover nest built too close to the road as the anxious mother shrieked alarm calls, before returning, feathers only mildly ruffled.

Watching a lioness stalk, even if she decided against the hunt that particular time, and trying to breathe extra quietly as a lion cub prowled very close to the string of vehicles, curious about these strange metal intruders.

Or realising just how huge a giraffe’s leg bones can be… and with bleached white bones scattered around from earlier meals, quickly starting to recognise which animals they had belonged to.

It’s well worth allowing a couple of days for your safari – that way, if you aren’t lucky enough to spot something on the first day, you’ve got another chance.

There’s no real point trying to pack everything into a day anyway: it’s too hot to keep driving for hours on end (even if your kids could stand it) and the animals will have sought out the shade too so there’ll be less to see anyway.

As well as our morning and evening game drives, there’s also the option to take guided bush walks if you’re visiting with older kids and village visits to get a taste of local Maasai life.

Other tempting extras include a hot air balloon flight – these usually have a minimum age restriction though and involve a very early start.

For more tips on visiting Kenya with kids, check out all my advice, including planning a family safari

What to pack for a Kenya safari with kids?

As well as binoculars, and a zoom lens if you’re travelling with older kids who have their own DSLR camera (or sharing yours), one of our best buys was this little animal checklist for East Africa.

Great for keeping my daughter engaged during those periods where we were waiting for animals to appear, it was also handy for teaching her (and me!) more about what there is to find on a safari in Kenya.

While not all the animals can be found on a Naboisho Conservancy safari, the vast majority could – and our guide helped to explain where you might see the others. Plus it’s a fun souvenir to keep afterwards.

For more tips on what to pack for Kenya with kids, check out my Amazon list with more of my essentials

Otherwise, while a lot of your family safari packing list will look the same as for any hot weather holiday, there are a few things to bear in mind when it comes to your packing list for Kenya with kids.

Always take a well-stocked first aid kit, as while tented camps will have essentials available, the options for children will be more limited.

You’ll also need high SPF like the Ultrasun range and high-strength insect repellent: the Jungle Formula range has an impressive variety, while the Boots Repel spray is fine for children aged 2+ and comes in maximum strength.

Check out my complete family and child first aid kit list of essentials to pack

Avoid blue (and black) clothing on safari as this can attract tsetse flies – wearing insect repellent should keep them at bay, but better not to give these nasty insects any added incentive to check you out.

Bright colours can also make you more visible to the animals, so muted shades are better – although having said that, our guide often wore traditional Maasai patterns including red and vibrant purple as well as neutrals, so don’t feel you have to replace your entire wardrobe. Khaki is always good though.

Do pack some warm clothes as well, for early morning game drives and for the evenings.

While temperatures hit the mid to high 30s by lunchtime, it can be unexpectedly cool first thing, especially combined with a breeze as you drive, so a hoody and long trousers came in very handy for 6.30am starts. Our guide did have ponchos to borrow, but it’s best to bring your own layers.

You may need rainwear as well. There are usually two main rainy seasons during the year in Kenya – the ‘short rains’ for a few weeks during November and December, then the ‘long rains’ from April to early June (sometimes at the end of March as well).

It’s worth taking closed toe sandals even if it’s dry, both for guided walks and in case of stinging insects and scorpions after dark (although just venturing to and from the restaurant with someone to light our way, we managed fine without).

Don’t forget that while you might have a generous weight allowance for international flights, you’ll probably be limited to 15kg for any internal flights, plus you can only take soft-sided bags or cases.

Hemingways Ol Seki for families: the verdict

Our stay at Hemingways Ol Seki was easily one of the highlights of our trip to Kenya – in a week with plenty of competition.

And it wasn’t just because of the fantastic experiences on our Naboisho Conservancy safari, although that certainly played a big part.

Having been on a self-drive safari before, it was wonderful to have a guide with us, knowing where all the latest sightings were and sharing all his knowledge (not to mention being able to go off road easily).

Plus the sheer number of animals was astonishing. In our 10-minute drive from the airstrip to Hemingways Mara camp, we’d already seen about a dozen different species, almost without trying – and the memory of that leopard emerging from the bushes to scale its tree and devour its kill is unforgettable.

But while more than one camp might offer those experiences, it’s still hard to beat a stay at Hemingways Ol Seki with kids – for luxury and a family-friendly welcome, I only wish I’d had longer to copy those rock hyraxes and lounge there day after day.

Disclosure: Our stay was courtesy of Hemingways Collection, with flight support from Far & Wild and Safarilink. All opinions on a stay at Hemingways Ol Seki with kids for our Naboisho Conservancy safari are my own

Images copyright MummyTravels

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