Baby-friendly Belfast – exploring Northern Ireland

City breaks might not be the obvious getaway to spring to mind with either a bump or a baby, but having spent a long weekend in Belfast when I was five months pregnant, it’s rocketed up my list of great places to revisit once the mini traveller is born.

press trip*

Although it played second fiddle to Dublin for years, the city has been firmly back in the limelight since the Titanic anniversary (not to mention as a filming location for Game of Thrones). But there’s far more to see and do in the Northern Irish capital, with its compact walkable centre, quirky boutiques, museums and bars galore (admittedly not so great when you’re not able to drink).

I normally love a walking tour to help get my bearings and fill in some background, but with the bump, it was hard to beat the city’s black cab tours.

In fact, it’s a good job I was sitting down. In the space of three hours, my fast-talking, wise-craicing black cab driver and tour guide Billy Scott had shown me most of Belfast, given me a quick lesson in linguistics, showered me with quirky facts, filled in the background to the Troubles and generally cherry-picked all the best bits of the city before presenting them to me.

And all that while still getting me to believe (briefly) that the bronze statue in front of the old Customs House was of a grim-faced ranter who used his soap-box to preach about the evils of ping-pong. I’m planning to blame the hormones for my gullibility…

You can adapt the tour as much as you want, whether you’re looking for a bit of everything – we took in everything from the site of the UK’s biggest bank robbery to the spot where Led Zeppelin first played Stairway to Heaven, plus tales of the old river and linen industry – or something a bit more in-depth on one particular aspect of the city.

It’s definitely doable with a baby in the cab too (and ideal if you’d prefer a more private option than a group tour).

It’s the murals around Shankill and the Falls Road which most visitors want to see though, and the taxi wheels down residential back-streets to point out the old propaganda, and the new collaborative paintings which are starting to replace them.

I also stopped at the peace wall and added my own meaningful graffiti to the permanent quotes from the Dalai Lama and Bill Clinton.

The tour is a good reminder that Belfast is leaving the shadow of its past behind, not least as we drove and ambled through the revitalised Cathedral Quarter as well. And that’s all before you get to stories of Errol Flynn’s father…

Belfast’s best shops: retail therapy with a bump

The bump has certainly been curtailing some of my spending impulses, but there’s nothing to stop me browsing with an eye to the future – and even at five months pregnant on my trip to Belfast, there was plenty to tempt.

The Northern Irish capital has all the usual high street shops you’d expect, as well as plenty of choice under the glass dome in the Victoria Square shopping centre, but it’s the chic boutiques of Lisburn Road and quirky craft shops of the city centre, which set it apart. Here’s five of my favourites.

St George’s Market

St George’s Market is worth a visit to wander past the surprisingly enticing array of fish and fresh fruit and veg stalls, even if you’ve got willpower of steel and aren’t planning to buy anything.

But with artwork, jewellery and clothing on sale, plus plenty of cupcake, coffee and crepe stalls to keep you refuelled as you wander, I’m willing to bet your resolve will waver. My favourite was Alice McGuinness’ beautiful glassware, including some fabulous rings.

Honey Boutique

I could have spent hours wandering Lisburn Road, if only I’d had more time, and Honey Boutique is almost as gorgeous as its stock, with boudoir-style hot pink furniture and chandeliers between the designer shoes, accessories and lingerie.

One for while the baby’s napping if you’re not visiting while pregnant…

SpaceCraft

Tucked away in the Fountain centre, SpaceCraft’s shop is set alongside a gallery and exhibition space, all showcasing emerging local designers. A great place to snap up unique jewellery, prints and other artwork.

Belfast’s bars: Mocktails (and plans for cocktails)

If there’s one thing that’s not particularly bump-friendly, it’s investigating a city’s bars – which is a shame, as Belfast has a very fun mix of quirky places, as well as some historic pubs. Just another reason to go back as soon as cocktails (rather than mocktails) are on the menu once again.

Muriel’s Bar

My favourite quirky spot, Muriel’s Bar is unmissable for gin-lovers – although there’s cupcakes as well as the huge selection of gins at the bar on Church Street.

You can’t miss Muriel’s influence on this quirky little bar, with both hats and lingerie decorating the walls, thanks to her two professions of milliner and lady of the night. If you prefer rum, head to its slightly surreal sister bar The Spaniard in the Cathedral Quarter.

Crown Bar

The Victorian gin palace’s first owner definitely had the right idea – ‘If you’re going to sin, do it in style…’ Now owned by the National Trust, you could spend hours gazing at the intricate tiles which decorate the Crown Bar, so book one of the booths with its period lighting and enjoy the decoration over a drink.

The Merchant

The former Ulster Bank building boasts chandeliers, its own jazz bar, afternoon tea with Art Deco decor and a rooftop tub overlooking the Cathedral Quarter – The Merchant is ornate old-school style with an added helping of opulence.

Bittles Bar

This tiny old triangular bar on Victoria Square might be narrow, but there’s more than enough room for almost every drink under the sun at Bittles Bar, especially whiskey, between the portraits of major literary figures on the walls.

For more ideas on family-friendly Ireland if you’re planning to cross the border, Marta from Learning Escapes has some great tips on Dublin with kids as well as ideas for longer Ireland itineraries. 

Belfast’s best hotel for a bump: City centre chic at Ten Square, Belfast

I’ve always loved my sleep, although as pregnancy has progressed it’s been harder and harder to get a good night’s doze. So I was even less inclined to rough it than usual on my trip to Belfast.

And boutique hotel Ten Square definitely didn’t disappoint. With a whopping 10 pillows and cushions piled on my bed, they were apparently testing the theory that it’s impossible for a hotel bed to be too comfy.

Instead of lying down to sleep, you’re almost forced to burrow into a marshmallow-ey soft nest. I loved it.

The rest of the room was equally luxurious, with a silvery velvet chaise longue for me to lounge on after a long day exploring, as well as plenty of subtle minimalist glam touches like the full-length white leather framed mirror.

And the larger rooms aren’t short of space, with plenty of room to spread out – or stash a travel cot – so it’s also a child-friendly option (although there’s no interconnecting doors between the bedroom/living room area and the dressing area…)

But best of all, you don’t have to forfeit location for personality. The hotel’s Grade I listed building is quite literally a stone’s throw (assuming you’re a reasonable thrower) from City Hall in the city centre. And that puts you in walking distance of almost everything you might want to see.

Even Queen’s University was only about a 15-minute amble and you can walk to Lisburn Road in 25 (or catch the bus from the square around the corner for a few pounds like I did).

And after a night out hitting the city – or making the most of the buzzing bar downstairs, which was packed the whole time I was there – you can refuel with one of the hotel’s impressive breakfasts, including enormous sticky muffins, oatmeal and a full cooked Ulster breakfast with potato bread.

 

Disclosure: My trip to Belfast was arranged with the Northern Ireland tourist board. All opinions on baby-friendly Belfast and graffiti are my own.

Images copyright MummyTravels