One day in Chios, Greece: mastic gum & hidden coves
What makes a travel memory? Sometimes it’s not ticking off the world’s greatest sights but something simpler. The smell of garlicky roasting lamb. The heat of the sun reflecting off tiles. The light glinting on the sea, turning it an improbably bright blue. The feeling of adventure in the pit of your stomach as you twist down a vertiginous island road to a deserted cove.
And travelling around the Greek island of Chios, above anything else, the taste of masticha – the sap from trees growing only here, which flavours ice cream and liqueurs and was the original chewing gum.
I’ve visited Greece as a budget-conscious student. I’ve visited again in more luxury on a cruise. I’ve sipped cocktails on a rooftop in Athens and marvelled at the incomparable ruins of the Acropolis.
I’ve ferry-hopped around the Cyclades and taken picture after picture of the classic white buildings against a blue blue sky. I’ve also headed back over and over with my daughter, on long lazy trips to this land which loves and welcomes children.
But sometimes it’s the unexpected discovery which really sticks in your mind. Sailing into the harbour, I had no fixed plans for our one day in Chios.
Oh there’s plenty to see – the 11th century monastery of Nea Moni, a UNESCO World Heritage site, as well as museums in Chios Town. But unlike so many destinations, there’s no feeling that you should be checking must-visit places off a list.
Instead we hopped into our hire car and set out to see what we would see – beaches, ruined watchtowers along the coast and elaborate churches, as well as the uniquely decorated buildings of Pirgi.
Known as ksista (‘scraped’ in Greek), it’s also called scrafitti, a tradition thought to date from the 14th century when the Genoese ruled the island but still continued today.
Scraped into the brick itself, the white and black patterns are mesmerising, geometric designs and shapes in a monochrome kaleidoscope.
In contrast, the village’s Byzantine church of Agios Apostolos glows a golden red in the sun.
We stopped in the square, shaded with parasols and trees, to order mezze and lamb and relax away from the heat so strong you could almost hear the air buzzing.
Refuelled and re-energised, we followed the winding road through the mountainous interior, looking into steep gorges and out to the sea, before finding our way to a small sheltered bay.
I couldn’t point it out on a map today – perhaps not even then, accurately. But I can remember stepping into the cool water and feeling like I’d discovered a secret corner of Greece, a hidden spot that no-one else knew.
Perhaps that’s what makes the memories that remain. The feeling of discovery.
Check out my complete guide to Greece with kids here – or for more of my travels to Greece, here’s why I love island hopping with kids as well as one day in Corfu plus things to do in Kos with kids
Images copyright MummyTravels
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If I hadn’t read the title, I could have been lead to believe that you were talking about another Mediterranean paradise, my home island of Sardinia – all that talk about the mouth-watering smell of roasting lamb, and the shots showing crystal-clear water… then those gorgeous pictures reminded me we were in Greece, a place I haven’t yet visited for some reason… but I’m starting to think that should change very very soon!
Thank you for sharing this.
My pleasure! I think I need to follow in your footsteps, as Sardinia is somewhere I haven’t visited (yet) – writing that post brought back such lovely memories, I’d recommend anyone to visit Greece though. Planning sunshiney trips to the Mediterranean is definitely the best way to brighten up a very grey January as well…
I love the scraped brick – so cool! We are dying to take our kids to Greece! Thanks for the inspiration!
It’s so unusual isn’t it – loved discovering something so specific to this one spot. I’m dying to go back to Greece as well, especially with my daughter, although perhaps somewhere a bit less off the beaten track to start with!
Looks very similar to some of the Croatian islands that I love. I’ve never been to Greece but I hope to get there someday. History and beaches- my favourite combination!
I know what you mean, exactly that similar landscape to some of Croatia. The Greek islands are perfect little tastes of history, beaches and great places to sit and eat!
Until recently, I knew nothing about this island. Of course, I have heard about it but didn’t know about the mastic trees and the well preserved towns. After reading a bit about the island, I find it very fascinating. Then, you have the gorgeous vistas and the good food. Will love to visit.
It’s not one of the best-known ones, so it was fun to visit without too many preconceptions, just to explore – we ran out of time for one of the ‘big’ sights, and still saw so much.
I’ve never been to Greece and we were looking for some cheap flights for this summer, but it was still a bit too much for our budget. I think these days, we have to book everything well in advance 🙂 Never mind, I can still explore a bit though some blogs and I really enjoyed this little cove! The water seems so blue !
I think so with flights – last-minute deals seem a thing of the past there. But definitely one to dream about and plan for the future, the sea n that cove was incredible, no filter at all!
Love this post. You’re right it’s often the thrill of the discovery that can make the most memorable trips. Chios looks wonderful. I would really like to discover more of Greece – I am definitely a fan and now you’ve mentioned garlicky lamb… I’m starving!
Exactly, it’s as if it existed just for you to find – Chios was perfect for that, small enough to explore easily and so much around every corner. And the food – oh, amazing.
I loved reading this about Chios as it was the first place I went on a Mediterranean summer holiday. Up until then I’d lived in India and (what was then) Czechoslovakia and travelled to such absurdly exotic places for holidays as Kashmir and Rajasthan, but just thought that was normal. I remember being so excited to go on a “real” summer holiday to a “real” summer holiday place like Greece (typical of my parents to choose Chios though as it was utterly undeveloped and unheard of in the early 80s!) I still remember the smell of masticha and the taste of souvlaki and tzasiki and will never forget Chios. I think we went in 1981 (ish)! Thanks for the memories.
I love that normal is just what you’re used to – Rajasthan, Kashmir… even Czechoslovakia was pretty exotic for me growing up! Chios still feels very unspoiled, although 25 years must surely have left a mark, a lovely place to make memories.
stunning! #farawayfiles
Thanks!
Oh I do LOVE Greece, I was always an Italy fan but Greece is quickly becoming a firm favourite
It’s somewhere I’d love to go back to with my daughter – both Greece and Italy are wonderful, especially for families, and I’ve made it to neither of them with her yet!
This looks great, Cathy – and quite different from some of the islands I know in Greece. The buildings of Pirgi are beautiful and I love the distinctive colour of the church. I do so enjoy a drive around with no intention other than a spirit of discovery. Thanks so much for the travel inspiration and for linking up with #FarawayFiles
Thanks – it’s very different from the classic image, which is most of the islands I know, but was a lovely place to explore.
Wow! Thanks for sharing a new part of Greece! I’ve nver heard of this island and it looks amazing! #FarawayFiles
It’s not one I’d really heard of before our stop on the cruise but I’m so glad I got to visit.
This looks so beautiful, I love the decorated buildings of Pirgi. And yes, hmm Greek lamb – nothing like it… and it’s dinnertime here in Ireland… Your images are stunning and the water looks amazing. Thanks for sharing #FarawayFiles
It is so unusual, I loved the effect – and thank you!
Cathy I was so distracted by the thought of the lamb you mentioned in your first paragraph.. I am so glad I overcame the cravings as it was fascinating reading about scraffiti given my recent exploration of ‘grafitti’ in London. Thanks for sharing these cultural insights and beautiful island of Chios with us on #FarawayFiles
Mmm I can almost taste it again myself – there is nothing like Greek lamb but definitely worth venturing on in Chios.
The Greek Mister mentioned this island to me numerous times, it’s amazing! Did you stay for a bit to swim in that private bay? :p
We only had the day to explore – arrived in the morning on our cruise ship and then headed off late afternoon, so only time for a paddle! Such a beautiful island.
The world is filled with so many gorgeous nooks. I have never heard of Chios, but your beautiful photos and narrative totally inspired me to go! xoxo, nano | http://www.travelwithnanob.com
It really is – my list always gets longer rather than shorter. And thank you, that’s so lovely to hear!
The sheltered bay looks divine. Loved your post, Cathy, and hope to travel around Greece someday, making my own little discoveries!
Thank you – it was heavenly. I hope you get there and will look forward to reading your posts if you do!
I absolutely concur! Sometimes the places that stick were ones that you never knew you loved until you found them. I ADORE that scraffiti – how gorgeous is that. And of course the blue blue blue water. Thank you so much for sharing – pinning for personal use later! #FarawayFiles Cheers from Copenhagen, Erin
Exactly – and it was a definite find. Thanks again for a lovely new linky.