Exploring Nelson’s Dockyard, Antigua & historic St John’s
If only bricks could talk. At first glance, they look fairly ordinary. A nice honey colour and thinner than you might expect but for all that, just another brick in the wall. Except this wall and these bricks have seen history.
Admiral Nelson strode past them, they were built on the fruits of the lucrative Caribbean sugar trade and its darker side trading in humans; they’ve also stood as slavery was abolished and independence was declared on Antigua.
If you ever think this Caribbean island is only about its 365 beaches, a short visit to Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua is the perfect starting point to make you think again. And the perfect starting point to discover some of Antigua’s history.
Dating back to the 18th century, the Georgian dockyard is still operational today. Instead of being the centre of operations for the British Navy, it’s bars, shops and hotels which draw the boats now.
And as well as wandering round gazing on the historic buildings and occasional British relic (red phone box and post box, for starters), there’s a museum giving an insight into what life was like in the Navy.
If your family is interested in British naval history, add Bermuda to your travel wishlist too – The Royal Navy Dockyard is one of the best things to do in Bermuda
Short. That’s the overriding message – if the battles didn’t get you, the disease almost certainly would.
If you survived both (and the doctors’ ministrations) the lead vessels used to distill the sailors’ rum ration were pretty much guaranteed to poison you.
Today Nelson’s Dockyard is lovely. Quiet cobbled streets, ornamental cannon, blue skies and palm trees waving in the breeze.
Minnie, jetlagged, promptly fell asleep in her buggy, leaving me time to wander around and check out the exhibits, from four-poster beds to gruesome medical devices, and the views out to the fortified harbour.
From here, you can head to Shirley Heights for one of the best views on the island down to English Harbour, to the interpretation centre at Dow’s Hill (although the sound and light show there is probably better for older kids) and over to Betty’s Hope.
The most famous of the sugar mills dotted around the landscape, it’s another relic of the sugar trade. The plantation, named after the planter’s two daughters, was one of the earliest on the island dating back to 1651.
Goats were nibbling the trees as we drove up the winding path but we’d sadly timed it too late to have more than a quick look around the restored mill, with its machinery and sails.
For a deeper look at King Sugar and Antigua’s history, you need to head to the capital St John’s. Beyond the pastel brights of the buildings, the Duty Free shops of Heritage Quay and the market, you’ll find the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda.
Quiet and empty of other visitors that day, the fans whirring were almost all the noise to be heard. Definitely a museum of the old school, there’s lots of glass cases and documents but nothing interactive – Minnie, fortunately, was amused elsewhere checking out the engines outside.
Which left me free to discover a bit more about the early Amerindians, the 17th century settlers and the realities of slavery, with exhibits including bills matter-of-factly advertising the sale of slaves to the immediate and harsh penalties for any kind of resistance.
Plus, thankfully, another with the proclamation of its abolition.
Overshadowing it all, St John’s Cathedral – or St John the Divine – with its white neo-Baroque towers. Currently under much-needed renovation, it was closed to visitors when we visited although you could still wander through the graveyard outside.
The third cathedral on the site, with the first two destroyed by earthquakes in 1683 and 1745, the ornate and elaborate stones commemorate some of the island’s earliest British settlers.
I couldn’t help wondering what one long-departed soul might have thought of Antigua today, a tropical holiday paradise for us.
But when he died in 1720, the first fortifications had only just begun to be built – and even those bricks at Nelson’s Dockyard, used first as ship’s ballast then building materials, were still waiting the long sea journey from Britain to Antigua.
PIN FOR LATER: NELSON’S DOCKYARD ANTIGUA & ISLAND HISTORY
Disclosure: My trip was courtesy of the Antigua Tourist board and Elite Island Resorts as part of the #eliteislandfamilies blogathon. All opinions and ruminations about bricks are my own.
Images copyright MummyTravels
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Ooh I could really do with a trip there right now. Your writing is so lovely and brings it to life.It’s great to see the history of these places as well as the beaches.
Thank you, that’s so lovely! And I would’t say no to a return trip myself… Brrr.
I really loved exploring St Johns – I found it to have such a great vibe and the colours and atmosphere really made me feel I was in the Carribean. Ah how I wish I was there now – lovely photos
Thanks! We didn’t have that long to look around unfortunately, but I was really glad to see the museum and cathedral, and great to soak up some of the atmosphere. Always love the bright colours in the Caribbean.
How incredible I consider myself a history expert but until now knew nothing of Antigua’s past. I am a specialist in Tudor, medieval , Victorian and ancient history.
I only knew a very general overview until I started travelling there – there’s always so much to discover I think, and more than expected on Antigua.
One thing I am not good at is retelling past histories of places I visit but reading the history of Antigua, the abolishment of slavery and the museum had made me happy.
I’m glad – I love learning more about destinations when I visit, and trying to tell those stories
This place looks so beautiful, I would love to visit to experience it all for myself. Gorgeous photos. Kaz x
Thanks! It is such a stunning island – loved the colours.
Wow, beautifully written. Do you know I think I was here on my honeymoon, but am not sure! How awful is that? We stopped at a number of Carribbean islands for just a few hours and I could never retain where! I am fascinated by the history. Great piece.
Thank you! I’m guessing you were on a cruise? Sounds a lovely way to spend your honeymoon, although a few hours on a few islands and they’d definitely blur a bit. 🙂
That first photo sold it to me! It’s gorgeous!!!
Thanks! It is such a lovely island.
Ahh, so lovely to read about my neighbouring country, usually just a quick stop to transfer planes from Dominica so I’ve never really discovered Antigua or learnt about it’s history, thank you for sharing 🙂 x
My pleasure – glad you enjoyed it! It doesn’t seem to matter where you live, it’s always the places on the doorstep which we leave til another day 🙂
That is my perfect kind of trip, I like beaches but I’m far more interested in exploring the history of a place and getting inland.
Exactly – I’m the same. I do like the chance to relax but I can’t imagine spending the whole holiday lying on a beach.
This is all fascinating – and it sounds like a wonderful trip.
Thanks – it was a fantastic trip and lovely to discover another side to the island as well.
My grandfather in law always talked of St Johns being his favourite place, it’s so nice finally reading about it,
I’m glad I could tell you a bit of its story.
Beautifully written post! We actually went here on our honeymoon and loved the beauty of it! However – shamefully did not do any research on the history!! xx
Thanks! It is stunning there isn’t it – and your honeymoon is one time where I think relaxing and enjoying yourself should top historical research 🙂
Loved those cobbled street ! Hope it was an amazing visit.
FarZain
@http://colorsofourrainbow.blogspot.ae/
It was wonderful – so much to discover!
Great post! Fascinating to hear about the island’s history. Beautiful pictures too!! #citytripping
Thanks! I love how much there is to discover there.
It’s easy to forget that the Caribbean has History and isn’t just about beautiful beaches. I’ve not been to Antigua but would absolutely love to visit. It’s been too long since I was in the Caribbean, 20 years almost exactly! Time to rectify that me thinks! #citytripping
I definitely think you’re due a return after 20 years – and you’re right, there’s so much to discover once you do look.
Wow it looks amazing out there! What a great place to visit #CityTripping
It really was!
It’s good to read about a different side to the Caribbean. I think it’s very cool to have walked in the steps of Nelson. Love your photos – just the thing for a cold January afternoon in the UK! #citytripping
Thanks! And absolutely, the beaches are wonderful but each island has its own history and individual side as well.
What contrast between The St Johns of today and the past. My folks visited during their last Caribbean cruise and came back with a rather nice bottle of rum for us. I’m still breathing so rum production has definitely improved 🙂 #citytripping
Isn’t it – I have a bottle of English Harbour five-year-old rum (and very delicious it is too, any ill effects are entirely self-inflicted!)
Great insight into a beautiful place! Love the photos and the stories! Cool post with #citytripping!
Thanks! Love how much ‘city travel’ covers 🙂
We didn’t make it into St John’s on this trip … it’s on my list for next time!
Definitely worth popping in if you get another chance 🙂
Gorgeous pictures! It doesn’t look like many tourists were around at all! Its history seems fascinating – from what you’ve captured in the museum, as well as British relics like the phone booth. Antigua reminds me of its neighbour Grenada … scenic and not overrun by tourists. #citytripping
Thanks! We did pretty much have it to ourselves – the bonus of going slightly outside peak season and being able to go outside school holidays. Grenada is somewhere I’d love to go, the spice history sounds fascinating, so interesting to hear they seem similar.
I am from the Caribbean and I have been only to 3 islands (apart from Puerto Rico). I know I have to go and explore more islands. When I was younger, I felt the urge to move from the island but, now, it is like being on an island is one of my happiest states. Antigua looks amazing. It is such a pretty place!
I do love being on an island, or by the sea in general – makes me very happy as well, especially when it’s the Caribbean! It’s only the past few years that I’ve really started to appreciate how different the islands all are as well.
I love the Caribbean! Have been to a few islands (on a cruise), and would love to go back (preferably not on a cruise), and Antigua looks and sounds great!
Antigua’s definitely a good one for a longer trip – I’ve been to at least one smaller one which was beautiful but I can’t quite imagine spending seven days there. Not that I’d say no to a Caribbean cruise right about now! 🙂
I have to say beaches don’t really do it for me (I am a failed sunbather) but history does and that would make Antigua a great place for me to visit. I also look at old buildings and would love to know the stories their walls could tell.
I do like a bit of time lying back with a book in the sunshine (rare though that is) but I couldn’t imagine spending a week lounging on a beach (I don’t sunbathe well either) so I love somewhere with plenty more to explore.
This is such a terrific post – so interesting. I love history, as you know, and hadn’t thought about how much of this there would be in Antigua. What a fab place – sun, sea, great food and history too!
Thanks! And the same here, I think it’s easy to forget how much more there is to the Caribbean sometimes than the beaches.
OMG so cute! The buildings are so rustic and charming. And 365 beaches?! Count me in!!
I know – you can’t go wrong with 365 beaches AND lots more to explore…
I just came across your post by chance looking for images of St Johns churchyard. The gravestone you mention belongs to my direct ancestor Daniel MacKinnen x10 genrations. I’d love to follow in your footsteps on a simliar trip.
What an incredible coincidence! How amazing when the internet throws up links like that – and Antigua is wonderful, I really enjoyed discovering some of the history as well as the beaches, so I do hope you get there yourself one day.