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Silves Castle – the Algarve’s best preserved castle

These days, the city of Silves is an attractively sleepy place, all cobbled streets and historic buildings. Jump back a millennium or so, and it was a mighty Moorish capital known as Xelb (or Shelb), rivalling Lisbon in influence.

The chunky red battlements of Silves castle still tower over the picturesque city, once an important Moorish trading centre.

Set on the Rio Arade, the beginning of the end came in 1189 when Portugal’s Sancho I laid siege to the castle, eventually winning control after three months. (Then losing it a couple of years later. And so on). But as the river started to silt up, its position as a strategic port was also lost, and it wasn’t until the 19th century that local cork and dried fruit trades revitalised the town’s prospects once again.

While I doubt this economic disaster was too enjoyable for the inhabitants of the town over the centuries, it’s perfect for visitors now. Because what’s left of Silves Castle, overlooking the orange roofed hillside homes, is a beautifully preserved fortress.

A view up to Silves Castle in the Algarve, Portugal, towering above the town

All chunky red battlements, the sandstone structure of Silves Castle dates from between the 8th and 13th centuries, mixing Islamic and Christian influences. Today, you’re greeted by a towering statue of a Crusader, while inside you can walk the walls around the open courtyard.

A set of excavated walls for ancient rooms are visible, along with a cistern, and shallow pool surrounding the new café, a perfect little oasis of cool on a blisteringly hot September day.

Although the original Moorish occupants were unlikely to have been doing much lounging around water features, it does make you think of other palaces across Iberia and North Africa – as does the very welcome cold mint tea.

There are also regular exhibitions for an extra fee. Children under 10 can enter the castle for free, while it’s less than 3 Euros for adults, and unless you want to carry a buggy up and down stairs, a baby carrier is a much better bet for younger children.

You can also book tours which include visits to Silves – affiliate link*

Don’t expect audio guides or detailed signs, but that makes it all the better to let your imagination run wild.

A view from Silves Castle in the Algarve to the town's cathedral

From the battlements, you can also look down onto the cathedral, or Se, a relatively unadorned but striking church with some interesting Crusader tombs.

Built in 1189 on the site of an earlier mosque, it has been repeatedly rebuilt and restored over the centuries thanks to the ongoing battles of the Reconquista and the catastrophic earthquake of 1755. Entry costs 1 Euro for adults.

We didn’t get chance to check out the Museu Municipal de Arqueologica – an archaeology museum not being high up the list of interesting attractions for a toddler and a two-year-old – but you can see prehistoric, Roman and Moorish antiquities if you do.

Instead, we joggled the Maclaren over the cobbles and wandered a few of the quiet streets in the historic centre, dotted with souvenir shops and umbrella-ed café tables.

The 21st century it might be, but when Silves celebrates its Medieval Fair every August, I can imagine that 12th century costumes don’t seem too far out of place.

For more ideas of things to do in the Algarve with kids, check out my top picks, as well as things to do in Lagos with kids, around 30 minutes from Silves

Images copyright MummyTravels

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40 Comments

  1. That’s one mighty impressive castle.

    I actually really enjoy having a good wander of castles, forts, things like that – ruins or otherwise, I just like to explore a bit and enjoy having a little ponder about the history.

    Plus due to their strategic position you nearly always get fab views or the area!

    1. Exactly! This one did have some amazing views – and fun to wonder about the people who must have lived there.

    1. Just amazing – such a fantastic spot to look out across the cathedral and rooftops, like watching centuries of history.

  2. What a brilliant castle, looks well worth a visit. I love the fact that there are so many well preserved examples around – shows they did the job they were designed for!

  3. The admission fee is so cheap! I love visiting castle ruins. They do make your imagination run wild, thinking what kind of people have lived there and the events that have taken place within those walls in the past. #CityTripping

  4. OOh lovely! We were supposed to go to Lisbon last year but that trip feel through! Now I can add this as a possible sightseeing trip for when we do make it! #CityTripping

    1. It’s a bit far from Lisbon unfortunately (although you should definitely go to Sintra and the castle/palace there if you make it to Lisbon) but a good excuse for another trip to Portugal?

  5. The pictures of the castle really look like they could have been taken in North Africa, hard to believe it’s Europe. I love old semi ruins like this that haven’t been all tizzied up with gift shops, audioguides and educational areas. Just visiting them is education enough.

    1. It really is like transporting yourself to Morocco at times, amazing to think how similar it still be if one of its residents saw it today.

  6. Lovely post to read – feel as if I’ve been transported there with your narrative and photos.
    Remembering many trips when we ‘joggled the maclaren over the cobbles’!

    1. Thank you! For reasons I never quite understood, cobbles quite often sent my daughter to sleep too – it must have been boneshaking despite our efforts, but she never seemed to mind.

  7. I like the sleepy look of Silves. I imagine there are some lovely long siestas to be had there. Great photos too. The castle looks very imposing.

  8. The red stone of the castle is so evocative. I love the warmth of Moorish architecture – and it always comes with a fascinating story.

    1. Same here – there are some wonderful places I’d love to visit from that time, across Spain and Portugal. It’s always so fascinating.

  9. What an impressive castle! The history behind Silves is fascinating….hard to believe that such a sleepy place was once the ancient capital. Thanks for sharing – will come in handy when planning our possible Portugal trip. #citytripping

    1. Definitely – it’s hard to imagine the bustle and importance it must have once had. I did wonder what Portugal might be like if the river hadn’t silted up…

  10. Great timing that i have read this we are staying in Albufeira for 5 days in November and will be hiring a car for few days. This will certainly be on my list of things to see. I love castle’s
    #citytrippin

    1. Oh perfect – we stayed in Gale, about 20 minutes outside Albufeira, so definitely doable from there. We also went to Guia nearby, to Ramires restaurant, which is supposed to be the place piri piri chicken was invented (true or not, it tasted great).

  11. This is an area I have been wanting to visit for a long time. I will visit the castle first to take a look at the town for there. A pirate exhibit? That sounds cool. I am sure the castle got it share of attacks.

    1. It’s a lovely part of Portugal – the south west is much wilder and unspoiled, and there’s walking on the west coast too, plus lots of history, and some gorgeous beaches.

  12. I am a huge castle fan! they are so fascinating to me and the different architecture and stories behind them all is so fascinating to me. what a beautiful place and so cool to see how well it’s persevered!

    1. She was about 14 months then so it’s definitely a good place with little ones – very glad to inspire!

    1. It’s a lovely corner of Portugal – although I do love the whole country, if I’m honest!

    1. My pleasure! Check out Guia as well if you’re nearby/get chance, the birthplace of piri piri chicken 🙂 And Sagres is lovely, so wild.

  13. Wow what gorgeous pictures, really beautiful location! I’ve never been to Portugal but it looks like such a lovely place, would be lovely to go sometime! Thanks for hosting #citytripping 🙂

    1. Thank you! I do love Portugal, definitely somewhere I’d recommend with a lot to discover in a relatively small country.

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